milky evening light exposures
A flash that's popular with skating photographers is the Sunpak 555 hammerhead (AKA handle type) flash. It takes the Sunpak TTL module for Contax. It also has its own exposure sensor for non-TTL applications. It's rugged and powerful. And it's inexpensive, so if it somehow gets broken, it's cheap to replace.
Could you perhaps clarify? I'm having some trouble imagining what this means, specifically.
The first angle I'd think of would be a 'strobist' setup of one or two flash units with remote triggers that you set up on small/lightweight tripods. Exposure control would be manual, using either a flash meter to determine correct exposure through measurement, or using the flash unit's/units' guide number(s) and distance to the subject.
Alternatively, any hot-shoe flash unit should work if you prefer to work with on-camera flash. Again, exposure would be mainly manual, unless you find/opt for a Contax TTL compatible unit. Google turns up this page which is likely relevant: https://davidde.com/2021/12/08/ttl-flash-options-for-contax-yashica-slrs/ However, I suspect you'd be painting yourself into a small corner market-wise if you were to hold on to a TTL-requirement with the Contax cameras (no hope at all for the K1000; it doesn't have TTL support) since it is a relatively small ecosystem/marketplace.
In your place, I'd probably go for a couple of second hand Canon or Nikon flashes with manual exposure settings, or something from a brand like Yonguo if you prefer to buy new. If budget is really tight, you can often pick up flashes from the 1980s from a variety of brands (Sunpak comes to mind) for a pittance; these generally fire either at full strength, or the more 'advanced' ones can be dialed back in power depending on your requirements. Some of these units even support a very rudimentary form of auto-exposure by measuring reflected light from the subject, although I'd hesitate to rely on this for film-based photography, unless extensively tested with a digital camera under the kind of conditions you're shooting.
I hope you read and understand post #4. Unless you really mean “remote” as in off-camera.
Skateboard photography was never an interest of mine but I did a lot of kiddie basketball, and found autoexposure (Vivitar 283/285) to be extremely effective for on-camera flash. When they eventually died… Nikon SB-16 to exploit F-3 TTL. That was just a hair better than the Vivitar automatic exposure option. Manual is likely to be a real hassle - either fiddling with GN arithmetic or flash meters.
Whatever works for you, though. Good luck and enjoy!
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