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Reliability of Nikon FM

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I have at least three FE bodies and an FE2. If I need to use a motor with one of them, I can. I don't see the attraction of the FM. I would rather use a Nikkormat FT2 of FT3. The Nikkormats are solid and, I think, more comfortable to hold. The FE and FE2 cameras have interchangeable focusing screens while the FM does not. If I'm going to use a 'K' screen anyway, the Nikkormats are fine.
 
dynachrome said:
I have at least three FE bodies and an FE2. If I need to use a motor with one of them, I can. I don't see the attraction of the FM. I would rather use a Nikkormat FT2 of FT3. The Nikkormats are solid and, I think, more comfortable to hold. The FE and FE2 cameras have interchangeable focusing screens while the FM does not. If I'm going to use a 'K' screen anyway, the Nikkormats are fine.
Click to expand...

I prefer the FM over FM2, FE, etc. because:

- it can meter non-AI and all later lenses wide open
- other than the meter, it has no electronic circuitry to fail; no electronic shutter

The Nikkormat FT2 is equally nice.

If I need more functionality, I'll use my F2, F3/T, F4s, FM3a
 
I bought a used FM in 1985 because I thought my two 1960s Fs were about to wear out.
Now I'm stuck with three perfectly working cameras.
 
RalphLambrecht said:
go, I sent the cameras to sa Nikonprofessional service and paid $50/ camera.The cameras worked well after that.Now, the issue is back;I think spending $50/camera every three years is a bit much.My Hasselblads don't give me this kind of trouble.What's your exp[erience?:sad:
Click to expand...

I feel so stupid but I finally figured it out. If I cock the film advance first and then set the shutter speed, the camera will fire.If I set the shutter speed first or leave it where it is and then cock the film advance,it won't fire.:smile:Anyway, thanks for all the replies.:smile: I go and hang my head inshore now:sad:
 
RalphLambrecht said:
I feel so stupid but I finally figured it out. If I cock the film advance first and then set the shutter speed, the camera will fire.If I set the shutter speed first or leave it where it is and then cock the film advance,it won't fire.:smile:Anyway, thanks for all the replies.:smile: I go and hang my head inshore now:sad:
Click to expand...

That doesn't seem right. You should be able to fire the camera without needing to switch shutter speeds.
Anyway, you have some manuals above now.
 
RalphLambrecht said:
I feel so stupid but I finally figured it out. If I cock the film advance first and then set the shutter speed, the camera will fire.If I set the shutter speed first or leave it where it is and then cock the film advance,it won't fire.:smile:Anyway, thanks for all the replies.:smile: I go and hang my head inshore now:sad:
Click to expand...

Something is still wrong. On any reasonably popular camera from the 1950's onward, I know of no restrictions on when you can change the shutter speeds in relation to cocking the shutter (usually winding the film as well). Often, on my Exaktas, Speed Graphic, Minox, or any camera with a Compur shutter, I'll set the speed before cocking the shutter because I don't like to hear the gear train as I change speeds. However, my understanding is that it really doesn't matter.

There is something not correct with your particular FM.
 
Theo Sulphate said:
Something is still wrong. On any reasonably popular camera from the 1950's onward, I know of no restrictions on when you can change the shutter speeds in relation to cocking the shutter (usually winding the film as well). Often, on my Exaktas, Speed Graphic, Minox, or any camera with a Compur shutter, I'll set the speed before cocking the shutter because I don't like to hear the gear train as I change speeds. However, my understanding is that it really doesn't matter.

There is something not correct with your particular FM.
Click to expand...

Confirmed my FM does not have any such dependency.
Think you have lube that has turned to wax.
Have you used the camera regular eg mine gets about six cassettes a month...
 
Just buy a FM3a.
 
RalphLambrecht said:
shutter release is stuck.:sad:
Click to expand...

Hmmm, how attached are you to said FM? If it has sentimental value, then send it in for an overhaul. What you can try is to pop the baseplate off. You'll see a lever in between the mirror box and the motor drive coupling. It's a little silver lever, with, if I remember correctly, a small flap on the end of it. While not touching the shutter speed dial, use the advance lever, then flip said lever to the opposite position. Try firing it, either from the motor drive firing pin hole or from the shutter release at the top. If it fires, then it's an issue related to that lever. I had a chrome FM about 9 years ago that was jammed. Found that by playing around with the lever, I could get the camera to function. Since I'd paid $15, plus tax for the camera, I didn't mind dumping $138, plus tax into it, to have it overhauled.

Also, is this an FM with the shutter lock collar around the release, or is it like a newer Nikon body with the lock integrated with the advance lever?

-J
 
RalphLambrecht said:
This FM has a shutter lock collar around the shutter release.with a red and a black marking.:smile:
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Serial below three million.
You could retire it to stables like an old horse but don't get one above three million unless you are confident about difference.
 
Xmas said:
Serial below three million.
You could retire it to stables like an old horse but don't get one above three million unless you are confident about difference.
Click to expand...

This is interesting; mine(3)have all been bought independently used in the early to mid 1970s;Their serial #s all start with2266xx and two of them are only 4 numbers apart 185 and 189;They may be from the same batch .:whistling:
 
According to Wikipedia the FM was made between 1977 and 1982. In the early to mid 1070s the Nikkormats were still being made. The FM/FE models were often referred to as "semi-professional." The F models were the professional ones. At a certain point in film SLR history many advanced amateurs bought the professional models. Some liked the features, some liked the accessories and for others it was pride of ownership. The last group might have done as well with less expensive cameras. The result was that the development and manufacturing costs of the professional cameras were spread out over a larger number of units so prices stayed more reasonable. As SLRs became smaller and as motor drive/winder technology improved it became possible to offer many additional features even in the semi-professional models. The FM/FE cameras do have very durable bodies but the body castings/panels are not what would typically wear out on a camera. How many Nikkormats got bent or dented even in rough use? Today F series models, unless rare or in new condition, are much more reasonable in price. Of the FM/FE series only the FM3A and FM2N models still sell for high prices. FE and FE2 models sell for very little even though they are capable cameras. They just don't give all of the shutter speeds without batteries. What about an F series model instead? I have working F2s but I prefer Canon F-1s. Maybe an F3 will agree with me more. I have
an MD-4 waiting to be used. All cameras need service over time and the FM should not be thought less of just because it's not an F2 or F3. The FM served its intended purpose well.
 
^F3 bodies have become the bargain of the decade... You can get them for the same price you'd pay for an FE2. Sometimes less.

The main reason why the FM2 has held its value is due to it taking over the cult camera status from the K1000. Remember how K1000 bodies were going for almost $200 a few years back? Now they're back down to a more reasonable level. Now, the FM2 bodies are back up into the $200-$300 range.

The FM/FE series are pretty durable, but I'd have to say, not as durable as a Nikkormat FT series body. I've had some real ugly looking Nikkormat FTn/FT2 bodies over the years, yet, most of them worked fine. I haven't had the advance ratchet cams fail on them, nor the tripod socket get torn out of one, like what happened to a couple FM2n bodies I've owned. In fact, right now, my current FM2n is being overhauled. Ratchet cam no longer locks when the shutter is cocked. Since it is an FM2n, it is being repaired. If it had been a Nikkormat FTn, I probably would've parted it out by now. Cheaper to buy another body.

-J
 
RalphLambrecht said:
go, I sent the cameras to sa Nikonprofessional service and paid $50/ camera.The cameras worked well after that.Now, the issue is back;I think spending $50/camera every three years is a bit much.My Hasselblads don't give me this kind of trouble.What's your exp[erience?:sad:
Click to expand...
CLA every 5-10 years and all is good.BTW.they want to be used.kept in a drawer for years without use does't do them any good.Get them out and work at least the shutter a few times a year.
 
k.hendrik said:
bought my fm in 1980; in 2007 new seals, never missed a shot !
Click to expand...
I took my seals out,cleaned the grooves and painted them flat black. the cameras are light tight as a lead tank.the seals are unnecessary and over engineered in my opinion.fewer parts means less complications and less failure;sophistication through simplicity.
 
I had a black one that I found at a garage sale about 8 years ago or so. Absolutely love the camera, so much so that I picked up a silver one too. I put new seals in probably 5 years ago but since then I haven't had one issue. Actually maybe I'll run a couple rolls of film through them this weekend in honor of this thread!
 
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