Reg:- What print developer and paper for a newbie

[abhishek@1985]

Hi friends,

Well I have successfully developed my first 2 rolls of 120 of Fuji Acros 100 in HC 110 with the dilution H.Used normal development time .
Needless to say I am excited to see it being developed successfully.

Now I am aiming for developing it in the darkroom.But I am a total noob and wonder what Print developer to start with and what paper to go for.
I would like to keep things simple and consistent enough so that once i can tweek things one at a time and determine the best possible combinations.

Regards,
Abhishek

 

[Tom1956]

Dektol 1:2 and whatever cheap-grade RC you choose. Indicator stop bath and Kodak Fixer.

 

[bdial]

Everyone here has their favorite, but Dektol is hard to beat.

Rather than some random cheap paper, I'd recommend something like Ilford MG IV RC.
The cheap papers can suffer quality control issues, and the private label stuff has a way of changing manufacturers every few years, so you lose the consistency that is very important for learning.

 

[markbarendt]

Another good developer is Ethol LPD.

I like Adorama's house brand paper, works great.

 

[Kevin Caulfield]

Who or what is "Reg"?

Don't overthink what to use. Just start with the standard recommendations and then branch out from there if and when you wish to.

 

[Rick A]

I like Ethol LPD, it's economical, use any inexpensive RC multi grade paper to get started. Make sure you have a set of MG filters or can dial up the proper settings on a dichro head to adjust contrast.

 

[Tom1956]

I like Ethol LPD, it's economical, use any inexpensive RC multi grade paper to get started. Make sure you have a set of MG filters or can dial up the proper settings on a dichro head to adjust contrast.

Ethol LPD is economical?? It say 15.99 a quart plus shipping and used 1:1 for regular cold tones. Doesn't look economical to me.

 

[markbarendt]

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/17329-REG/Ethol_ETLPDP128_LPD_Developer_Powder.html

$15/gallon

I prefer 1+4

 

[fotch]

Kodak Dektol and Ilford RC, Kodak Indicator Stop Bath, Kodak or Ilford Fixer.

 

[abhishek@1985]

Thanks guys for the wonderful suggestions.
It seems that Ilford RC paper is quite popular. However, Ilford Multigrade IV RC paper comes in Gloss and Pearl finishes? Wanna know which one you guys generally prefer.
Also, does the fixer and stop bath matter much as i am planning to use the Ilford Stop and Fixer as with my films?

 

[markbarendt]

Yes, same stop and fix will work. Just once you use it for paper don't use it for film, and vice versa. Just keep the working solutions separate.

Both finishes are nice.

 

[abhishek@1985]

Thanks for the input.
I have been thinking of going with Ethol LPD .However, would like to know if i can create stock solutions and keep it for months? Or is it that I should use it for a single session.

 

[winger]

I prefer the pearl finish in Ilford RC, but I know some like glossy. Back when I used Kodak paper, I always went for the semi-matte one. With Ilford's, neither is bad, it's just personal choice. You might get a small pack of each first and see which is your taste.

 

[scherminator]

I'm also a printing newb, having finally scored a complete darkroom setup for free a couple of months back. I burned through the assortment of papers that came with it, and have since stocked up on 5x7, 8x10 and 11x14 Ilford pearl RC. It's a personal choice, but that's the finish I seem to like the most at this point. For stop and fix I'm using my regular developing stock, and I've just finished my first bottle of Ilford warmtone developer, which I really liked. Next up is a 4 liter jug of Agfa paper developer - no opinions on that yet.

As for your question of creating solutions, I mix the developer 1:9 for that session only. It may last a day or two, but I try to print enough in an evening to use it up. Same with the stop bath. Fix on the other hand I bottle and reuse.

Have fun with it! I sure am.

Sent from my LT30a using Tapatalk

 

[Dr Croubie]

Yes, same stop and fix will work. Just once you use it for paper don't use it for film, and vice versa. Just keep the working solutions separate.

Both finishes are nice.

Is that a real hard'n'fast rule, a concern, or just a recommendation?
I've had the same bottle of fixer (working solution) going for months. Every time I do a film I'll do a clip test (none failed so far), but I've been doing some paper printing in between, although not much until today (got the day off work so i've done a fair bit today).
So now I shouldn't use it for film? (and if I do, what happens?)

 

[MattKing]

Is that a real hard'n'fast rule, a concern, or just a recommendation?
I've had the same bottle of fixer (working solution) going for months. Every time I do a film I'll do a clip test (none failed so far), but I've been doing some paper printing in between, although not much until today (got the day off work so i've done a fair bit today).
So now I shouldn't use it for film? (and if I do, what happens?)

Don't use it for film after using it for paper. And I wouldn't recommend using it for prints when you have first used it for film.

The emulsion byproducts that build up in used fixer are a bit different between film and fixer. And if you use fibre based paper, there will be a fair bit of paper fibre in the used fixer.

 

[markbarendt]

Thanks for the input.
I have been thinking of going with Ethol LPD .However, would like to know if i can create stock solutions and keep it for months? Or is it that I should use it for a single session.

Yes the stock lasts very well and the working solution can be replenished.

http://www.foto-r3.com/files/hoja_tecnica_ethol_UFG_LPD.pdf

 

[Zelph]

The developers are pretty standard and you already have many good recommendations.

Why not go with fibre paper rather than RC right from the beginnin. No serious fine printer uses RC for their images.

 

[markbarendt]

The developers are pretty standard and you already have many good recommendations.

Why not go with fibre paper rather than RC right from the beginnin. No serious fine printer uses RC for their images.

Well, for one, FB paper is a lot more work and more costly.

And actually at the local photo gallery in my neck of the woods it is pretty rare to see any photo labeled as printed on Fiber Base Paper. FB is more the exception than the rule.

If one wants a flat print I see no benefit in FB. I have though seen FB prints framed in a way that doesn't flatten the paper, the curl and wrinkle is maintained; this is a fun.

 

[mr rusty]

Is that a real hard'n'fast rule, a concern, or just a recommendation?

I think a recommendation. I used to use the same fixer until someone pointed out that fixer used for paper in a tray is likely to end up with quite a lot of fibres/dust/crap in that may stick to negatives, so now I keep them separate.

 

[pentaxuser]

Ilford MGIV RC comes in three surfaces last time I looked. Glossy, Pearl and Satin in the order of shiny to matt.

pentaxuser

 

[brian steinberger]

I recommend Ilford pearl RC paper. Go with LPD and dilute it 1:3 or 1:4. Use the developer one-shot and dump after each session. Get Ilford stop bath and hypam fixer. Mix up a working solution of each and keep track of the number of prints you run through the fixer. Store in a bottle filled to the top. When you reach the capacity of the working solution dump it and the stop bath and mix up fresh.

I don't agree with the recommendation to start with fiber paper. Start with RC, get your feet wet with it and some day if you want you can move up to fiber. And most importantly, have fun!

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I recommend Ilford pearl RC paper. Go with LPD and dilute it 1:3 or 1:4. Use the developer one-shot and dump after each session. Get Ilford stop bath and hypam fixer. Mix up a working solution of each and keep track of the number of prints you run through the fixer. Store in a bottle filled to the top. When you reach the capacity of the working solution dump it and the stop bath and mix up fresh.

I don't agree with the recommendation to start with fiber paper. Start with RC, get your feet wet with it and some day if you want you can move up to fiber. And most importantly, have fun!

I will second the recommendation to use Ilford paper. The little bit extra cost will pay you back in incredible consistency. Every box performs the same, and that really helps when you start to understand how developing your negatives affects the print quality.

Ethol LPD is a really great developer because it lasts for a very long time after it has been mixed. I buy the cans of powder, and go through a gallon kit fairly quickly, but it has never gone bad on me. I'm confident that you can use the stock solution for a year if you store it in amber glass jars, and use marbles to fill up the empty space as you deplete the contents.

As others have stated, stop bath and fixer is mixed up and you follow the manufacturer's instructions of how many prints you can safely pass through the fixer.

Abhishek, I'm so glad that your films turned out well, and I can't wait to see your results.

 

[Rick A]

Ethol LPD is economical?? It say 15.99 a quart plus shipping and used 1:1 for regular cold tones. Doesn't look economical to me.

It outlasts Dektol, is more versatile, and is replenishable, that sez economical to me.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

It outlasts Dektol, is more versatile, and is replenishable, that sez economical to me.

You need to look at the powder. One gallon kit of Ethol LPD has far more capacity than a gallon of Dektol, especially when replenished you get as much as 400 prints out of a gallon kit.