Reducing contrast on Ortho film

I have some Efke Ortho film and I shot it in sunny conditions and I think I should develop it to a lower contrast. I have used it successfully in overcast conditions and it prints on grade 0.5 or 0, so I think in sun it probably won't be printable.

Previously I have used Xtol in a jobo, I realize that is not idea conditions for low contrast. Should I use a different developer, such as Perceptol to lower contrast? I'm guessing a semi stand development would help too?

My usual combination is EI of 25 and develop in Xtol for 6 min. Very sharp and contrasty negs result, but beautiful prints.

You could look up low contrast developers, try pre-flashing the film and reducing development time. Might take some testing to get what you want.

I've used Ilford Ortho, and if I recall correctly, rated it at 40 and processed in Rodinal 1+100 for 10 minutes. Contrast was close, but a bit too dense. However, the shutter was old and probably not at all reliable.

Jarin

Try without the Jobo. Minimal agitation is what you need to look for.
G.

A soft working developer is what you want. I use Tetenal Centrabrom S diluted more than recommended and get a good range of tones.

bvy said:

I use Tetenal Centrabrom S diluted more than recommended and get a good range of tones.

Click to expand...

That's listed as a paper developer, I thought paper developers generated much more contrast than film developers?

Craig said:

That's listed as a paper developer, I thought paper developers generated much more contrast than film developers?

Click to expand...

Paper developers are a popular choice for litho film, and this particular developer promises one to two grades softer for paper, so it produces less contrast in general. This seems to counterbalance the already contrasty nature of litho film and helps deliver a full range of tones. (Centrabrom's typical use is in combination with a second developer that delivers the blacks in a two bath print developing scheme.)

Like any paper developer, it works fast and should be diluted further for use with film. Even at 1+14, I develop from 60 to 90 seconds. This is a contact print from an 8x10 negative made in camera under strobes.

Just to close the loop on this, I ended up using pyrocat at 1:1:100 dilution. Developed for 15min with a semi stand agitation. Agitated for 30s at first, then 3 more times in the next 14:30. Neg came out nicely and prints well on grade 3 paper.