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I've had work done by Zack's in Providence R.I. In particular, he did a spectacular job on my Kodak Retina.
Nobody can guarantee something like that. All they can do is all they can do. It probably had issues when it was brand new and got exacerbated by pure age. I can't make my 1968 Camaro run perfect when I first start it, because that is the nature of a carbeurator. Your camera is bound to jam when it's cold, no matter what. That's just a hard truth about a 60-some-odd year old camera, and no repairman can make it new again. All they can do is repair it, fire it 200 times to make sure it's right, and send it out the door.
There's also Mark Hansen, Zeiss Ikon Repair in Portland OR.
He worked on my Super Ikonta. Good communication and a good job.
http://www.zeissikonrolleirepair.com/index.html
The Ikonta has a Compur shutter. I have three 50+ year old Compurs on my Linhof outfit, three more Compounds with old Dagors mounted in them - the newest is 1925 or so, the oldest about 1908. Rolleiflex Standard, Compur, 70+ years old. Other cameras with mechanical shutters, Nikons 40-45 years old, all have been serviced with appropriate cold weather oil (supposedly good to -75f). All are utterly reliable in subzero f. temperatures.
Why do mine work reliably and the OP's do not??
Because I am thinking in terms of those "tough-dog" repairs, to coin a phrase from the old TV repair days. Those cases when you go back again and again on a service call to keep repairing the same thing, being the DAMAGE that the original problem keeps creating. The set works fine a while, and then whoosh! the same resistor is sitting there burnt to a crisp again.The Ikonta has a Compur shutter. I have three 50+ year old Compurs on my Linhof outfit, three more Compounds with old Dagors mounted in them - the newest is 1925 or so, the oldest about 1908. Rolleiflex Standard, Compur, 70+ years old. Other cameras with mechanical shutters, Nikons 40-45 years old, all have been serviced with appropriate cold weather oil (supposedly good to -75f). All are utterly reliable in subzero f. temperatures.
Why do mine work reliably and the OP's do not??
Because I am thinking in terms of those "tough-dog" repairs, to coin a phrase from the old TV repair days. Those cases when you go back again and again on a service call to keep repairing the same thing, being the DAMAGE that the original problem keeps creating. The set works fine a while, and then whoosh! the same resistor is sitting there burnt to a crisp again.
Where in God's name is the problem?-- the problem that keeps causing the damage that keeps getting repaired. Now to get away from the TV repair analogy, sometimes the hardest thing in fixing something is to get the blasted thing to have the problem while you're there to repair it. So many times the dadgum problem WON'T SHOW UP, when you've got it up on the workbench. And this cold-weather bug just had that smell. But then, I'm one of those poor slobs who is cursed with the ability to repair everything. There's nothing I can't fix expertly. I would trade that ability in a New York minute for the ability to chase women.
Shall I request cold weather oil for the rebuild?
Thanks. I was only loosely quoting out of a HW Sams book called "Tough-Dog TV Repairs". I'm like you--find the ORIGINAL problem, IF you can get it to show itself while you've got it up on the bench. I had a Pentax ES with a cold-weather problem. Imagine a camera that's not worth $20 on EBAY could become such a strict teacher on problems that hide from the repairman. I could put that camera in the freezer all day, and it would not jam after my repair. Leave it sitting on the table, and it worked. Come back next morning after the wood stove had died out, and darned if it didn't jam again. Tough-dog repairs.
Shall I request cold weather oil for the rebuild?
Good ol' Howard W.I can remember tricks like putting a tomato paste can over a tube to make it heat up faster and maybe show an intermittent problem. Blasting things (not tubes!) with the freon dusters would sometimes show intermittents, too.
I had a Zenith console with a maddening problem in the convergence circuits, the bottom convergence would change intermittently between good and way off, I traced it to a coil on the convergence board...after about 5 hours.
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