Fuji Pro 400H?
Kodak Portra 400?
Kodak Ektar 100 (not so much grain but a beautifully saturated color negative film, maybe the best.) ...
Hi folks.
I'm after a 120 film with high contrast and saturation. I don't mind (and in fact like) grain. Ideally I want to shoot at 400-800ISO. Suggestions ?
There's Cinestill but at £12 a roll in the UK, it's double the price of pretty much everything else. Portra 800 is also likewise expensive and has muted colours. Fuji 400H/Portra 400 are cheaper, but still have muted colours.
Ektar and Provia 100 give me the contrast and saturation I want, but at 100ISO they don't give me the speed I need for street shooting in the UK during winter.
Am i stuck with B&W where I have plenty of choice ? Ideally I want the colour version of Tri-X
Provia 100 [gives] me the contrast and saturation I want, but at 100ISO....
Provia 100F pushes to EI400 well, giving you the color and contrast you like, with an additional two stops of exposure leeway. I would try a roll or two push to 400 and see how you like it.
More saturation/vividness and contrast are possible with your editing steps after film processing, if you are using digital output (online or inkjet).
If you want contrast and saturation, you might want to look into lower sensitivity slide films. Can you use a tripod for the shots you have in mind? if yes, go for Velvia 50.
This may be an answer. Would you not recommend pushing Velvia in the same way?
Thanks for all the replies folks. I use a lab to develop and scan my films, and I mostly view them electronically with some prints.
The lab I use is reluctant to push C41 and with 35mm I tend towards more consumer film such as Fuji Superia 400 and Kodak Ultramax 400 shooting between 200-800ISO depending on conditions/results needed.
This may be an answer. Would you not recommend pushing Velvia in the same way ?
I'm popping over the the lab I use tonight and I'll talk to them about E6 pushing - I guess the other alternative is under exposing Portra 400 to gain more contrast and a bit of gran.
While I do indeed post-process my scans, I'd like to try and get as close as possible to the results I want with the film rather than relying on post-processing to turn the film into something it isn't. If that makes sense ?
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