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kiku

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... I'm going to go with the Ilford chemicals (good idea?)...

How about supporting an American company??? Such as Acufine, Clayton, Edwal, Kodak!!! We send too many of our dollars and jobs out of the country. Ilford is in Great Britain. Sorry to get on a soap box here but I believe strongly in protecting what industry we have remaining and returning jobs here that have been sent overseas. Howard Tanger
 
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thebeatles

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How about supporting an American company??? Such as Acufine, Clayton, Edwal, Kodak!!! We send too many of our dollars and jobs out of the country. Ilford is in Great Britain. Sorry to get on a soap box here but I believe strongly in protecting what industry we have remaining and returning jobs here that have been sent overseas. Howard Tanger

No problem, I appreciate your care/concerns regarding this issue. Any specific recommendations regarding a black and white developer from those mentioned companies?
 

2F/2F

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I also think Kodak or Clayton chemicals are a better idea, for the most part, due to prices. Ilford chems are usually more expensive for effectively exactly the same thing, probably because they are imported.

Ilford Washaid and Ilfotec HC are particularly vile offenders in the price department when compared to Hypo Clearing Agent and HC-110.

Using B&H as a guide, 1 L (approx. 34 oz.) of Ilfotec HC will cost you about $49. The closest equivalent amount of HC-110, two 16 oz. bottles, will cost you about $28. Is the Ilford really worth paying 75 percent more? Plus the Ilford is not available in smaller bottles, like the Kodak, at least not here in the U.S.A. that I have seen. So, if you want to buy a bottle of developer to get yourself started, you are going to spend a minimum of $15 for Kodak and a minimum of $50 for Ilford (though you do get twice as much with the Ilford, of course). These two products are identical for practically all intents and purposes.

When the Ilford used to cost $38 something instead of $49 something, and HC-110 was $13 a bottle, I used to use the Ilford to support the company. But the price difference has nearly doubled since then (just in the past two or three years), so I have gone back to HC-110.

Ilford Washaid pre-mixed concentrate to make 5 L of working solution will cost you $16.50. Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent powder to make five gallons (approximately 19 L) of working solution will cost you $6. The Kodak provides nearly 4x more chemical for nearly 3x less money. You can save even more by getting the "cheesy" brands from Freestyle, e.g. the Legacy Pro equivalent from Freestyle costs $4.85 (which, oddly enough, used to be sold as "Kentmere," which is now part of Harman Technology, who make Ilford products.) It is true that you pay for the convenience of having a pre-made stock solution with the Ilford. But even when you compare it to the liquid concentrate Zonal Pro – by Alta Photographic in OK, U.S.A. – at $8.50, the Ilford is almost 2x as expensive; compare it to Arista pre-mixed stock solution, and the Ilford is over 3x more expensive.

For HCA, I use the powdered Legacy Pro in smaller batches for $2.89, so it does not go bad if I don't process for a while. I usually develop film in large chunks every now and then, rather than small amounts continuously.

Strangely, with these huge differences between some chemicals, the stop baths, wetting agents, and rapid fixers are around the same prices, and Ilford powdered developers are only a bit more expensive then their equivalent Kodak products.

However, Kodak makes a color fixer that works perfectly for b/w products, and it is disgustingly cheap. It is non hardening (a good thing), and costs about $7.50 to $12.50 a gallon, depending on where you get it. Follow the same instructions as you would with Kodak Rapid Fixer (sans hardener), Kodafix solution, or Ilford Rapid Fixer.

This being said, I love all Ilford products, and cannot live without my Delta 3200! That is one case in which there is no Kodak or Fuji alternative. But for the most part, I won't spend the money for Ilford stuff at this particular time. I may have to once Kodak gives up the ghost, though.
 
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guitstik

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When you think the stopbath with indicator is about to go bad, dump it in the toilet, then dump the developer. The stopbath will then indicate that the toilet bowl should not be used to stop film development! :laugh: :laugh:
Bad idea. Anything exposed in the toilet will develop cracks.
 

kiku

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No problem, I appreciate your care/concerns regarding this issue. Any specific recommendations regarding a black and white developer from those mentioned companies?

All of the products mentioned will give good results. Kodak's XTOL and HC-110 are well regarded and are readily available in a well stocked camera shop or online.
Continued research here on APUG will reveal much valuable info on B & W photo chemicals. Howard Tanger
 

kiku

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...
. You can save even more by getting the "cheesy" brands from Freestyle, e.g. the Legacy Pro equivalent from Freestyle costs $4.85 (which, oddly enough, used to be sold as "Kentmere," which is now part of Harman Technology, who make Ilford products.)...

Most of the Legacy Pro chemicals are now produced by "Photo Systems, Inc." in Dexter, Michigan, the producers of Unicolor products. Howard Tanger
 
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thebeatles

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One more stupid question:laugh:: If I am to use a 1+25 mixture for my developer/water mix, and I need 250ml to fill my developing tank, would this mean I am to use 9.62ml of developer in 240.38ml of water, or 10ml of developer in 240ml of water?
 

MattKing

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One more stupid question:laugh:: If I am to use a 1+25 mixture for my developer/water mix, and I need 250ml to fill my developing tank, would this mean I am to use 9.62ml of developer in 240.38ml of water, or 10ml of developer in 240ml of water?

Try 10 + 250, but all three will work fine.
 
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