Ready to try a new developer... Suggestions?

[mr. mohaupt]

Hey Gang,

I was able to buy some Rodinal (AGFA by A&O imaging solutions) from Freestyle a while back and love it! I don't process fill that much but this month I have shot over 5 rolls of film (120) and am realizing its going to be time for a new developer. While I love the way my film comes out souped in Rodinal I am interested in trying new developers. The problem is that with the ebb and flow of my work schedule my finances don't allow me to stock my fridge every month. So a 500 mL bottle of developer usually lasts me 6-9 months. I know that not all developers have that kind of shelf life nor do I have the space or containers to mix up developer in bulk.

So my long winded question comes down to this: What concentrated developers (single shot) do you like?

This is a broad question because I am looking for answers to run the gamut! If you would like to attach examples of your favorite developer in action I would love to see them. I soup everything from APX400 to Foma100 to Tmax 100 in Rodinal and really get a kick out of the look and ease of use.

Thanks,
~M

 

[Luseboy]

I just use d76 and get pretty nice results from it. Honestly if your used to rodinal, you won't like anything else... or so i've heard.

 

[mr. mohaupt]

Luseboy,

You know I have heard that but after reading the first two books by Adam's I see that he mostly used Kodak products. One being HC-110 so I was begging to wondering what am I missing out on. Random question unrelated to the topic but was he like "sponsored" by Kodak?

Why do you use D76?
~M

 

[markbarendt]

DD-X?

http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2011427124733149.pdf

 

[Athiril]

Concentrated? Rodinal.

Tetenal Emofin is a suggestions for a new developer to try.

 

[markbarendt]

was he like "sponsored" by Kodak?

They had a relationship.

 

[Luseboy]

Luseboy,

You know I have heard that but after reading the first two books by Adam's I see that he mostly used Kodak products. One being HC-110 so I was begging to wondering what am I missing out on. Random question unrelated to the topic but was he like "sponsored" by Kodak?

Why do you use D76?
~M

Hc-110 is supposed to be very nice. I haven't used it yet, but i have a bottle of it sitting in my darkroom. I use d76 because its extremely cheap, not tricky, and gives good results. I have yet to try another developer but will soon, my bottle of d76 is almost gone, then i will most likely mix up some microphen, depends on what i choose to use from the supply of chems sitting in my darkroom. I had heard that Ansel was able to make 35mm prints that looked like they were from a 4x5 with hc110, because it is a sharp grain developer. But d76 is easy, and it is super cheap, so i have no problem with it. Give it a shot, just get a small baggie of it, it is really easy. Lasts a long time too, I've been using mine current batch for close to a year now, no exhaustion. In just a normal jug, not an air-evac or anything.

 

[jp498]

I've been liking xtol and pmk with my kodak and foma film. Xtol is very high quality and versatile, but it is not apt to last six months for you. pmk from photo formulary will last that long. It will give you a bigger range or reduce your contrast without getting muddy. Now I'm trying pyrocat-hd and that's looking nice too.

Since you asked for it, heres one of my technically favorite tmy2 in PMK images:

I get detail in the black fleece jacket. I get highlight detail in the bright sun beaming on fair skin. Lots of nice shadow and midtone information recorded well too.

I don't have scans online, but I have some concert photos I shot with tmy2 and developed in pmk where I get shadow detail and nice highlight detail despite the bright stage lights. It would have looked blown out in xtol/d76.

For low contrast situations such as during a snow storm, xtol is my favorite. After the storm when it's sunny and contrasty I go for the pmk.

 

[bwrules]

Try PC-TEA. You need to mix it on your own, but it lasts forever as a liquid concentrate. Developing times correspond with Xtol. 1:50 is Xtol 1:2 times, 1:25 is Xtol 1:1 times.

 

[Gerald C Koch]

The developer that produces results that are really different from those produced by Rodinal is Xtol. This developer probably produces the finest grain and definition of any commercial developer available today. The problem for you is that it is available only in a 5 l size. If you are willing to mix your own then DS-10 might be a better choice since you can mix up only a liter at a time. It produces negatives very similar to those produced by Xtol. However, if you do not have the necessary background then it would be best to stick with commercial products.

You do realize that at some point you will have to decide whether you just wish to experiment or to make great photographs. If you choose the latter then you must standardize on a particular film and developer combination. Too many people make the mistake of changing materials on a whim. Good photographers learn all they can from a particular combination before they would consider any change. In other words there is no holy grail.

 

[Roger Cole]

HC-110 concentrate is very long lived so I agree it's one for you to try.

I favor T-Max RS used one shot at 1+6 or 1+7. Some folks use it at 1+9. The Kodak references to a stock solution are 1+4. Just add the little part B bottle to the bug part A bottle and mix then dilute as needed. I'm not sure about shelf life but it seems I've kept it after opening in full bottles for as long as that without trouble.

 

[R gould]

You could try something like Champion Promicrol, or Patterson Aculux, perhaps D76/ID11(both the same formula) or perhaps Xtol, but if you are like me and many others, if you like Rodinol then nothing else will come close, I have tried all of the developers I have mentioned, and many others, such as Tmax and all the Ilford developers, but I always find something lacking in them compared to Rodinal, and always come back to it,
Richard

 

[2F/2F]

Rodinal or HC-110 sound perfect for you.

 

[Ian Grant]

Your usage actually means that a liquid developer is the most economic option, Ilfotec LC or HC110 are one option as they both keep very well once opened (they are equivalents), otherwise I'd stick to using Rodinal for the same reason.

Ian

 

[mr. mohaupt]

Gerald C Koch,
Thats great advice. It makes me feel that much better with staying Rodinal. I am at the point where I know what kind of results I'm going to get based on my dillutions. No more real wondering. The only problem that I have now though is now I have to find which brand of "Rodinal" to get because they no longer sell the Agfa Rodinal by A&O imaging solutions. Is there really no difference between Adonal and Rodinal?

I have to say I really am interested in trying HC-110 now especially for my Kodak films. I buy Kodak film in bulk for my 35mm needs. Can someone explain the differences between how Rodinal responds to say T-max or TRI-x compared to HC-110?

~M

 

[R gould]

You can get Adonal, RO9 one shot, they are all the same,made by Agfa and bought by the bucket load by Either Adox,(adonal) or Maco (RO9 one shot, sold under the Rollei brand name), it is just that Agfa hold the copyright and rights to the brand name Rodinal and won't let any one else use it, I just bought a bottle of RO9 one shot, the brand that my dealer stocks, and use it to the same dev times and dilutions as I used when Rodinal was available from agfa, works perfectly, so just buy whatever is available in your neck of the woods, either Adonal, RO9, and enjoy using the stuff,
Richard

 

[Ian Grant]

With Tmax films Rodinal gives finer grain, slightly better film speed and better sharpness than HC110, it's not so good with Tri-X or HP5.

If you look at Kodak's own comparison chart HC110 is not one of their best developers, except in terms of keeping properties and convenience.

Ian

 

[Gerald C Koch]

HC-110 seems like a good choice for your needs. Check out the following site www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110 for lots of information on this developer.

Kodak's 2001 publication "Professional Photographics Catalog" has is a table comparing Kodak developers (emphasis is my own) --

Compared to D-76, HC-110 (dilution B) produces:

o Slightly less shadow detail or true film speed;
o Slightly finer grain;
o Slightly lower acutance.

Apparently, HC-110 has somewhat more solvent action than D-76, but less than Xtol.

Many consider D-76 the gold standard of developers to which other developers are compared. HC-110 seems to do very well in comparison.

I typically use HC-110 diluted 1+49 just like Rodinal. This is very close to Kodak's dilution E (1+47) for the sake of development times.

 

[Klainmeister]

I've been a fan of PMK and now Pyrocat for years now and would highly recommend Pyrocat. It's easy to use, hard to mess up development times (you sit most of the time and rarely have to agitate) and you can get the chemicals for about 100 rolls for $25.

 

[puptent]

I am going to second Photographer's Formulary Pyro-PMK, it is a staining developer, which makes a beautiful negative, especially larger formats, but I use it for 35mm, mostly Ilford films. It requires you pay attention to details (time, agitation, and temp.). Gordon Hutchings developed the PMK version of Pyrogallol and has an excellent book for around $25 from various sources. I got mine from Freestyle, and Gordon even signed it. PMK has a great shelf life, is a one shot, and you mix 1 part A, 2 partsB, and 100 parts distilled water. I mix up a liter at a time. It works well with a water stop bath, and a non hardening fixer, Formulary TF-4 is recommended as a fixer. My little Nikor tank holds 250 ml. But it's not all roses, PMK is toxic, wear gloves, safety glasses, don't spill, ventilation... you get the idea, and not the cheapest. All that said, I also keep a bottle of HC-110 around. I've moved away from powdered developers mostly for the shelf life and convenience of the concentrated liquids.

 

[Rick A]

Now that you "kind of know" what to expect from your developer, it's time to find out what it can really do for you. Now is not really the time to switch developers. it is time to experiment some and see what you can tweak out of it. I'm not saying to stay strictly to one developer, I have three that I use depending on the film and finished look I'm going for. I have D-76 for general use, Pyrocat-HD for LF and slow emulsion films, and Rodinal for grunts-n-grins.

 

[timtheskeetshooter]

I'm going to have to jump on the Pyro band wagon and recommend it as well.

PMK, Pyrocat-HD, WD2D+

They all keep for a long time and are easy to use. No worries about toxic levels unless your are mixing from raw chem. The liquid formats are no more dangerous than Rodinal.

I use PMK and Pyrocat-HD for just about everything but Plus-X (I have a stock pile in 120) . I reserve WD2D+ for Plus-X as the results are wonderful.

The best thing about Pyro negs is when you print them. Also, expect a film speed loss of about 1 stop.


Cheers!


-Tim

 

[waynecrider]

To me it would be based on the film I'm shooting, the speed gain or loss in the developer and if I needed to push the film. For a fine grain film I would generally use a high acutance developer and for films showing more grain I'd go with a solvent developer. I would also consider the enlargement size for the picture. There are a million threads here about X film in X developer. You'll get alot of insight in reviewing them.

 

[puptent]

timtheskeetshooter, thanks for the info on the toxicity. I was wondering if it was only the dry ingredients, but then there are warnings about skin exposure to droplets...

 

[Ian Grant]

timtheskeetshooter, thanks for the info on the toxicity. I was wondering if it was only the dry ingredients, but then there are warnings about skin exposure to droplets...

They are substantially more toxic, the reply was erroneous. However with care there's no issues, but contact with skin etc should be avoided if possible, there's no need for actual contact.

We use worse compounds around the house in some respects but these organics do need common sense and a keep your fingers out approach. Also vapours can be harmful so a well ventilated area is best.

Ian