RB67 stuck lens

[rayonline_nz]

I have read the past threads on this. I have pealed the cover back and located the hole, tried my paper clip for 3 hours to no avail.

I got my 50mm lens today, so I swapped my 90mm (pre C) and put on the 50mm C lens, took it off and put the 90mm back on. Then I tried to take the 90mm off again and I cannot.

If I rotate the rotation back to vertical I cannot fire the shutter. If I leave it on landscape orientation I can fire and I can cock it. I can also do that with the RB off. I just cannot dettach the lens. I cannot turn the collar of the lens.

Any advice?

 

[MattKing]

I have one lens - it might be the 50mm - that can sometimes be really tight.

I use a jar top opener to get a better grip. With a firm turn, it then releases.

 

[markbarendt]

Per Chance did the lens get put into mirror up mode?

 

[rayonline_nz]

No it is down. Set to N on the lens. I also took the focus screen off.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

Here, someone was able to remove a stuck lens by holding "the shutter lever forward"

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

"Shutter lever" makes no sense to me, though.

EDIT: On another site, someone mentioned holding the cocking lever down - that makes sense. Another said to use a strong paper clip, not an ordinary one.

 

[MattKing]

"Shutter lever" makes no sense to me, though.

Probably the shutter cocking lever, which some might consider to be a winding lever.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Probably the shutter cocking lever, which some might consider to be a winding lever.

Here, someone was able to remove a stuck lens by holding "the shutter lever forward"

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

"Shutter lever" makes no sense to me, though.

EDIT: On another site, someone mentioned holding the cocking lever down - that makes sense. Another said to use a strong paper clip, not an ordinary one.

It worked thank you. I did read that thread before. So I redid it 2x the first didn't work. Kept pushing down the lever, held my breath and heft ...
This is not fun man. Imagine if I am outside shooting.

Edit
It feels it has loosen up. Just before I put the film back onto vertical orientation I could fire the shutter but I couldn't push the lever forward. I shot a couple times in landscape. Back to vertical. I tapped the lever forward and then fully forward a few times. Now I don't have to do that ..... Something might be up.

It happened again. Even in landscape orientation. I fire the shutter but I cannot push the lever. I have to wait for it maybe turn the camera to an angle and or tap the lever forward lightly. Then I can push it forward............ Doing it yet again - there is a spring sound, only after that I can push it forward.

Put it to vertical again now on the 90mm I cannot fire the shutter. I switch back to landscape and can immediately fire. I popped the recently bought 50mm on. The same thing happens. Vertical orientation cannot fire the shutter. Put to landscape orientation and can immediately fire.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

It worked thank you. I did read that thread before. So I redid it 2x the first didn't work. Kept pushing down the lever, held my breath and heft ...
This is not fun man. Imagine if I am outside shooting.

Glad it worked. So, there still is an issue to be resolved - either on the body / lens mount or that particular lens.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Update - I have the original body. In landscape with the dark slide I can fire. In portrait I have to take the dark slide off. Sounds weird but it seems ok now - I knew the original body had no dark slide protection but landscape vs portrait (?). If that is correct. The issue might just be the lever. After it is fired, there may be a delay before I can push the lever forward.

Again thanks for the help.

 

[markbarendt]

One of the lessons I had to learn on the RB is that every motion I make needs to go clear to the stop to avoid glitches. It's not a camera that needs or wants a light touch.

 

[M Carter]

One minor detail -I don't believe the lens collar connects to anything as far as safety interlocks (IE, shutter won't fire with the dark slide out types of issues).

If the collar won't turn, there's nothing you can move or reset that will change it - you just have it on too tight.

 

[Theo Sulphate]

One minor detail -I don't believe the lens collar connects to anything as far as safety interlocks (IE, shutter won't fire with the dark slide out types of issues).

If the collar won't turn, there's nothing you can move or reset that will change it - you just have it on too tight.

No: there is an interlock. Unlike Hasselblad, the Mamiya RB67 Pro S won't let you remove an uncocked lens:

"If the mirror and the shutter are not cocked in this instance, the lens cannot be removed, because turning the bayonet ring will be intercepted by action of the safety interlock mechanism."

(from page 13 of the manual)

This is why he had to hold the lever down; the lens wasn't fully re-cocked.

 

[M Carter]

No: there is an interlock. Unlike Hasselblad, the Mamiya RB67 Pro S won't let you remove an uncocked lens:

"If the mirror and the shutter are not cocked in this instance, the lens cannot be removed, because turning the bayonet ring will be intercepted by action of the safety interlock mechanism."

(from page 13 of the manual)

This is why he had to hold the lever down; the lens wasn't fully re-cocked.

Ahh, my mistake - always thought the collar just tightened it against the camera!

 

[paul ron]

maybe im not getting something here.... you cant fire the camera in horizontal or verticle n have to wait or change the angle to fire?

this may sound strange but i had a customer with a similar complaint. when he demonstrated what was happening i realized he was holding the camer in the palm of his right hand, focusing with the left which is normal.

but at the lower right corner of the rotating back there is a small silver tab that his hand was pushing in that prevented firing the camera. its one of the interlocs.

this may not be your problem but it may be worth mentioning here as something to consider as weird symptoms.

also check all your components to see if they are all for the same series camera you are using? a plain rb revolving back on a pro s will not function as expected using an rb film back or pro s back. some interlocs are designed to only work with same series parts. you can still use them but you'll have to be mindful of the differences.

 

[rayonline_nz]

I had a careful look at it after reading that Paul

I put the RB67 on my lap, I cleared my arms and wrist and hands so nothing was touching it other than my finger on the shutter button. With the darkslide in, horizontal the shutter fires but vertical it does not. With the dark slide off - both orientations no problem. I don't have the word Pro S anywhere on this setup. So I assume I have the original body, RB and film back. Maybe the original model was like this? Doesn't worry me at least it warns me of the darkslide in vertical.

I also just regenerated the issue with the lever. If I fire the shutter and really really fast push the lever it doesn't move. Maybe I have to wait for it. I really did it quite fast though. But I think occasionally after you fire the shutter there is a bit of a delay before you hear that spring sound before you can push the lever.

 

[paul ron]

take a look at the revolving back... does it have one or two chrome tits?

look at the film back... does it have one hole at each top corner? is there a small lever under the advance lever?

with the generic rb backs, you had to flick a small tab in the top center to be able to advance the film n shoot the next frame.

if you are unsure, post a few pix of the components you have?

ill have to pull out my rb n see whats going on with that darkslide problem. it may be possible your rev back is for the pro.

oh does your dark slide have a small notch in it by the finger grip?

btw never snap advance the lever. the stop for the lever is a cast metal part that can crack off if you use it like a 35mm camera.

and yes, there is a delay from when you hear tue mirror go up and the shutter goes off. set tue speed to a sec n tou will hear exactly when the shutter fires. so fire, mirror goes up, the shutter fires. hold your breath after you hear tue mirror.

 

[flavio81]

I always repeat on this forum to new owners of the RB series: "you MUST read the user manual!"

That camera needs servicing to make sure the interlocks work correctly. Never force anything on a camera. My mamiya works just fine with a gentle touch, no need to force anything.

You should never attempt to remove the lens without cocking the camera first.

 

[rayonline_nz]

take a look at the revolving back... does it have one or two chrome tits?

look at the film back... does it have one hole at each top corner? is there a small lever under the advance lever?

with the generic rb backs, you had to flick a small tab in the top center to be able to advance the film n shoot the next frame.

if you are unsure, post a few pix of the components you have?

ill have to pull out my rb n see whats going on with that darkslide problem. it may be possible your rev back is for the pro.

oh does your dark slide have a small notch in it by the finger grip?

btw never snap advance the lever. the stop for the lever is a cast metal part that can crack off if you use it like a 35mm camera.

and yes, there is a delay from when you hear tue mirror go up and the shutter goes off. set tue speed to a sec n tou will hear exactly when the shutter fires. so fire, mirror goes up, the shutter fires. hold your breath after you hear tue mirror.

Not sure what you mean but two chrome tits.

The film back. Yes I have to flick the tab before I can advance the lever. I had to do this when I used it last time.

The dark slide. If you mean a small triangle hole. Yes it has this.