Can you try it with another lens and back?
I do not have my camera handy but as we know the cocking lever moves the lens tongs by rotating the front area. Is there anything impeding that area where the lens tongs extend into?
I had a RB67 that had a frozen cocking lever. I was not very familiar with camera when it happened, but was able to run a few rolls before it stopped working. This was in Miami, and I had to take it for service in Miami Beach (17-19 years ago). Parts needed to be replaced. I acquired the camera through a partial barter and gave it to an assistant after it got fixed. She loved the camera and did not have any problems as far as I know. Nice camera, but it probably needed service from not being used. Don’t hesitate to send it in for repair as they can be old cameras. I believe the model I had was an SD.
You may have to have the camera serviced, especially if it was difficult to get the lens off. Mine got out of whack with the lens once, and I had to send it in. The lens has to be cocked to remove. If it is mounted or dismounted out of sync with the body, you will have problems.
You may already know this, I am just starting with the obvious.
i only had it serviced in February which makes it all the more frustrating but it’s gonna have to go in again. It’s a pro s I have but I’m gonna get an sd and demote mine to a backup.
Exactly....The body should cock and fire without a lens
Didn't they warranty it?
Oh, a ProS or later will not fire (with or without a lens) if there's a ProS or later film magazine mounted and the dark slide in or the red double exposure flag visible. Won't prevent cocking, though, just might need to dismount the film back in order to test cocking and firing the body.
Robbie,
All the best with the repair. I hope the repair person will do the right thing for you.
Best,
Darr
Exactly....
Robbie, with the lens off you can look at the front of the camera where the lens attaches. When the lever is pushed forward the tongs on the lens rotate to the open position & the mirror moves to viewing location, so to speak. Hence, if there is any restriction on the front lens insertion area the cocking lever will not move. If the lens was forced off maybe that area is damaged?
You should be able to see that front area rotation take place with the lens off and cocking the lever when it's working correctly. If cocked into firing position you should be able to trip the shutter button.
The Pro-ProS-ProSD should be the same in that front area. I have the Pro & ProSD and they are with regard to lens mount and tong insertion points. The ProSD has a larger front opening to accommodate a couple late model lenses but I use lens collars for all early lens usage.
The service was actually for light leak issues/full service but they said at that time there were no issues, just frustrating for something to go wrong so soon. I had just sold a camera and that was gonna pay for some bits for my darkroom but it'll be going on RB repairs now.
I'd call them and tell them of the problem. They should at least give you a deal to fix it since they checked it out so recently and you say "light leak issue/full service". What did "full service" mean?
They took a month to get it back to me so I'm just using a different shop.
I hear you, Robbie. Your thought on the SD is a good one. I used a Pro for a few years until I could locate a very good SD upgrade. Since that addition years back now I've never had to pull the Pro off the shelf as the SD has worked flawless. Just got back from JTNP this morning and used it with only one hitch. I had not changed complete backs in sometime just changed rolls in the same back all the time. I forgot about the little dog ear tabs on the edges that need to be pushed in so the main slides can be moved to remove the backs. I was changing backs between E-100 (new to me) and Provia for comparisons. Not sure why but there seems to be a shortage of Provia or at least none at B&H for a month or more now.It was all getting very frustrating, it's on it's way to a repair shop so it's out of my hands now. I'm actually shooting a gig tonight with my dslr but had asked to shoot some portraits on my RB, luckily a friend offered me his pro sd to borrow for the night and after messing around with it for a bit, I'm definitely gonna get one and use my pro s as a back up body.
I forgot about the little dog ear tabs on the edges that need to be pushed in so the main slides can be moved to remove the backs.
Thank you Donald. I'll need to verify that the dark slide(s) engage the tabs correctly. Both the backs were the later S-SD type. I do have a regular Pro unit too but was not using it. In the predawn light I'm not sure if I accidentally had moved one of the sliders with the back already off and than could not remote until I found the dog ears to get the slider to move freely again. When you leave the house at 0230 and still fumbling in the dark my autopilot disengaged somewhere. Again, part of the issue was I'd not changed backs in the field in quite sometime. I always just changed the rolls by opening the back up and removing the roller assembly.I have a ProS body and both Pro and ProS backs, and on mine, the (ProS type) dark slide pushes those tabs -- it's one of the interlocks to keep from accidentally dismounting the film magazine without the dark slide inserted. Problem is, the dark slide needs a pair of projections on the grip strip to push those tabs. A Pro body doesn't have those tabs, as far as I know, and the original dark slides for Pro magazines don't have the projections to push them in. I have to manually release the lock slides when I use my Graflex 22 and 23 backs on the ProS.
There's also an interlock in the magazine interface plate on ProS and newer magazines to prevent accidentally pulling the dark slide when not on the camera -- a little spring tab that's pushed out of the way by a pin in the camera back. The astonishing thing, to me, is that Mamiya designed all this stuff to be seamlessly forward and backward compatible. Use a Pro accessory on a ProS, you don't get the added features (double exposure lockout, for instance), but everything still works the way it would on a Pro body.
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