RB67 dettached the film back without the dark slide... and a lens question

[rayonline_nz]

Has this happened to you? I moved the bottom slider and was able to unlock the film back off my Pro (non S) RB67.

The other thing is, it seems the film backs when they are removed from the camera you can remove the dark slide at will. Hasn't happened to me but has anyone accidentally removed the dark slide when the film back was removed from the camera and they had film inside it? They could had made the dark slide not removable until you open the film door.

I have seen RB67 lenses in particular the K/L lenses. From Japan. A number of them mention light scratches, or thin fog or edge separation. A big issue? They are $100US for a 180mm K/L lens. Or $200US seems without this concern.

 

[tedr1]

I believe the interlocks required for all the desirable features you describe were included with the ProS backs and bodies.

Two things about Japanese camera stuff on ebay: it is possible they are clearing out items that more picky domestic buyers turn down at any price. The "full disclosure" ensures they are off the hook for return shipping. I wouldn't buy without return privilege.

All the defects you mention are likely, when mild, to impair the image a very small amount, except for back-lit subjects when the lens may receive direct light and produce flare which the defects will make worse. Separation close to an edge may be covered when the aperture is stopped down so may not matter much if you don't work wide open.

 

[M Carter]

I've shot color E6 and tons of B&W with my RB for decades, never see a difference between C and non-C lenses. I believe some of the KLs were newer optical formulas, but can't say which ones. There are plenty of RB lenses on eBay/KEH/etc. in great shape (though KL lenses seem more rare) - I wouldn't bother buying one with fungus or separation; pay a little extra for a nice clean one. I can't imagine a KL lens is knock-your-socks-off better than an original or "C" lens; you're already in really really nice optical territory.

RB lenses aren't impossible to open up and clean - I've gotten small spots of fungus off of otherwise-gorgeous RB lenses inside the front elements. But they may really take some organization and care to get all the way down to the shutters (done it once, successfully).

They could had made the dark slide not removable until you open the film door.

They did, and renamed it the "Pro-S". The "S" mainly has all sorts of updates to keep you from screwing up - can't double expose unless you want to, can't shoot with the dark slide in, can't remove backs with the slide off, framing guides when you rotate the back, etc. Optically either body will deliver the same IQ; but the no-brainer stuff is (to me) worth the extra $$ for a Pro-S. Particularly in the commercial days, shoots could get frantic, and even today, I appreciate that stuff - I'll still hit the shutter and nothing happens, and I realize I haven't pulled the slide or something. Most of this stuff requires Pro-S or SD backs to work though. And you can use 220 backs with 120 film with no issues; the little metal sliding tab on the back of the film door releases the winding catch, so you can just crank the leader off after frame 10 without having to hit the shutter 10 more times.

 

[rayonline_nz]

I have a Pro SD film back. When it is dettached from the body, I can at any time remove the dark slide .... When i tried this there was no film in it, i wouldn't dare to try with film so I have no way of knowing ....

Yep, the Pro S and newer the bodies shouldn't allow you to fire the shutter when the dark slide is not removed.

The Pro non S body. You cannot remove the back if the dark slide is not in. However you can unlock the bottom slider, the top slide still doesn't slide to the left side. But after you slide the bottom one, you can at an angle remove the film back ...