I don't like the idea of touching a camera during time
exposures. Is that my only option for stoping a RB time
exposure? If so which method is best, at the lens or with
the cocking lever? Should I plan for long time exposures,
perhaps 8 or more seconds? Dan
I don't like the idea of touching a camera during time
exposures. Is that my only option for stoping a RB time
exposure? If so which method is best, at the lens or with
the cocking lever? Should I plan for long time exposures,
perhaps 8 or more seconds? Dan
Get a KL lens! You can then equip your camera with 3 (THREE) cable releases, which are respectively to raise the mirror, fire the shutter and close it. Otherwise black card will do it, as Steve says.
I was reluctant to use either method on my RB, but after making a good number of time exposures and using the film advance lever to close the lens, I don't see any evidence of camera shake. I suspect that the amount of time shaking is insignificant when compared to the total exposure time.
juan
I was reluctant to use either method on my RB, but after making a good number of time exposures and using the film advance lever to close the lens, I don't see any evidence of camera shake. I suspect that the amount of time shaking is insignificant when compared to the total exposure time.
juan
I've got to agree with Juan, I was also pretty unsure about using the T exposure when I got my RB but I've taken shots from 2 secs up with it and never seen any evidence of camera shake and that's without using a piece of card or a hat or something similar.
Well they must not make lenses the way
they used to. No more quick caps to end the
exposure. I'll likely practice with the lever, speed
ring, and dull black card. Good idea that last. Dan