I got just an idea, so this is just a thought to share.
What if we change the agitation time & frequency during the development; starting with quite frequent and long agitation and ending the development to almost like a stand development so in the end the film wouldn't be agitated almost at all.
I myself have an automatic agitation device (do-it-yourself) so I could program it to ramp down the time & frequency. Of course the development time would be then something different than what manufactures etc. suggest.
Stupid idea or something to study?
Read "Controls in Black & White Photography" by Richard J. Henry. I don't think there has been another study of this kind, ever published.
Well, my main point of bringing that book up, was that Henry made an entire book about testing in a very scientific way (him being amateur photographer, but scientist by trade trying to figure how this stuff worked behind the scenes). What he proved to me and many others is that ... forget it.Lachlan your post makes me wonder what noticeable difference there is between a manufacturer's agitation regime and one in which the regime changes gradually as the correct development time comes to an end. If for instance you use the Kodak regime for Xtol for say 12 minute development time then this might involve say 10-15 inversions at the start then possible 3 inversions( Kodak mentions 5 secs worth of inversions every 30 secs which I have found to be 3) so a total of about 22x3 plus say 15 inversions at the start = 80 inversions. If you slow the rate down from say half way to 1 inversion every 30 secs then you get 15 at start and 30 to the half way point so 45 then 1 per 30 secs so 12 inversions so 15 + 30 + 12 = 57. Would a difference of 23 inversions (80 v 57 ) make enough of a difference to be seen in a print from a negative.
Naturally I am assuming two negs of the same scene in the same light conditions and with the user having established the correct EI for his same camera In other words all other things being equal.
Yes a radical departure from the maker's agitation regime might alter the look of the negative but would it make it any better than following the same agitation regime throughout and if it does then unless this better neg could not be achieved by any other means it would seem to be a zero sum game?
pentaxuser
Well, my main point of bringing that book up, was that Henry made an entire book about testing in a very scientific way (him being amateur photographer, but scientist by trade trying to figure how this stuff worked behind the scenes). What he proved to me and many others is that ... forget it.
It was too long ago when I actually read it to make this kind of entry here, and my best summary is in my above post, that is what I took from it in the end. It is a rather thick book and all about testing, testing and more testing. Trying to fit its content into this discussion would be spending my days monitoring the discussion and referencing back to it.Could you summarize the main points Henry made? It's difficult to get a book for everyone just to understand what we are discussing here.
I don't think this holds water. There have been many with single agitation at start with nothing to follow producing great consistent results. And for sure you CAN over-agitate and I say this, because especially in manual agitation, there is no way to provide required consistency one time to the next.My opinion is that everything not constantly agitated is underagitated. You can hardly overagitate, the only thing to happen is that the film slips out the spiral groove or gets damaged in the tray. I work with rubber gloves on, film in a holding device—spiral reel or frame—in open tubs, in the dark. I have about 20 percent shorter bath times than indicated by the film manufacturers.
I repeat my question to OP: what is wrong with your negatives? Making processing changes for no apparent reason is nothing but, as Pink Floyd had it, a ... Momentary Laps of Reason and little else (and we could now argue whether Pink Floyd put their best effort into that one, for some they seemed a bit ... agitated ... in the studio).
I don't think this holds water. There have been many with single agitation at start with nothing to follow producing great consistent results.
Absolutely nothing! Should there be something wrong first?
.. and many bad experiences when not agitating enough. Single agitation technique is (as far I've understood) playing with fire. If someone succeeds on that, it doesn't mean everyone will.
I agitate each 30 seconds, but for extended development times like after 15 minutes or so, I change to every minute.
I also rap very firmly the first few agitations, then rap more gently the rest of the time.
So it does make sense to alter the pattern during a long run.
My opinion is that everything not constantly agitated is underagitated. You can hardly overagitate, the only thing to happen is that the film slips out the spiral groove or gets damaged in the tray. I work with rubber gloves on, film in a holding device—spiral reel or frame—in open tubs, in the dark. I have about 20 percent shorter bath times than indicated by the film manufacturers.
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