RA4 Bleach Fix

[BMbikerider]

I am having a big clear out in my darkroom and have come across about two and a half bottles of the fixer part of a 20L Kodak RA4 bleach fix kit.
Two are still sealed and the contents are clear and there is no sediment in the bottles. Rather than throw them out, can I use it for either fixing B&W films or paper?. I seems a shame to take the bottles to have the contents recycled. I have stopped printing colour due to an allergy from the developer chemicals. I thought I had got over it, but it's back with a vengeance !

 

[Rudeofus]

You can easily test this fixer component by doing a clip test. There's a good chance, that this fixer is more dilute than regular fixer concentrate, so dilute it less than you'd dilute it for making RA-4 BLIX. Now, that you most likely won't need this batch for color work any more, you can also make sure, that the fixer part is neutral in pH, which would greatly extend its shelf life both as concentrate and working solution.

 

[BMbikerider]

Yes it does work. The general quantity suggests the dilution rate is around 1 to 8. I tried it at 1 to 10 and the emulsion clearing was complete in about 1 minute so full fixing should be complete in around 2 mins. The clip test was with a cassette of self loaded Ilford Delta 100 which after 2 mins left the base with quite a strong but clear blue/magenta cast, more than I remember. It is so long since I used Delta 100, I cannot remember what the base colour was. Any comments.

 

[mshchem]

The blue color is normal. It you use a pre-rinse, the color of the pre-rinse water can be very intense. Kodak Tmax films have purple tint that I remove with fresh rapid fix and hypo clearing agent.

 

[koraks]

The clip test was with a cassette of self loaded Ilford Delta 100 which after 2 mins left the base with quite a strong but clear blue/magenta cast, more than I remember.

Probably because the fixer used is pH neutral and the anti halo dye doesn't wash out well at a neutral pH. Try either an acidic or an alkaline pre/post wash.

 

[BMbikerider]

It could probably used for paper fixing then, although the film strip wasn't washed out thoroughly if it was to be washed as normal that should reduce or eliminate the dye

 

[Rudeofus]

If the film requires alkaline or acidic pH to remove the antihalation dye, then developer or stop bath should do the job. There should not be a reason to use acidic (unstable) or alkaline (smelly) fixer.

 

[koraks]

If the film requires alkaline or acidic pH to remove the antihalation dye, then developer or stop bath should do the job.

Indeed.

 

[BMbikerider]

Update. I washed the clips for 15 mins and the film is now a very pale grey, I was just impatient.