Quick question on Arista ART / Fomapan

I've recently starting shooting Arista EDU in 4x5 and 120. So far I really like it, I just need to tweak my developing times a little.

Just out of curiosity if you had to compare this film to TMax, Tri-X, Hp5, etc... What would it most closely resemble? I haven't shot Tri-X since college in 1993. My film of choice before shooting EDU had been the Delta emulsions.

And for those of you who used it can you recommend a starting time on development? Currently I'm developing them in D76 1:1 for 10 mins and my negs seem a little thin and lack contrast compared to TMAx and Delta.

I'm using Arista Developer, with that film [Arista EDU and Fomapan] for 4x5, and develop at 6 minutes in patterson tanks.

Shootar401 said:

I've recently starting shooting Arista EDU in 4x5 and 120. So far I really like it, I just need to tweak my developing times a little.

Just out of curiosity if you had to compare this film to TMax, Tri-X, Hp5, etc... What would it most closely resemble? I haven't shot Tri-X since college in 1993. My film of choice before shooting EDU had been the Delta emulsions.

And for those of you who used it can you recommend a starting time on development? Currently I'm developing them in D76 1:1 for 10 mins and my negs seem a little thin and lack contrast compared to TMAx and Delta.

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In terms of grain and tone I think Forma Pan 400 is similar to Tri-X of the 70s, I shoot at 200 and develope 35mm in Mircodale (sp?) (or the Ilford verson) 1:3 120 and 4X5 in D 76 1:1. Are you shooting at 400? If so you may need to lower the ISO to 200 or 320, the data sheet suggests that it is really a 200 speed film.

I shoot fomapan 400 almost exclusively, and the film it is closest to is Tri x, not the current tri x but the tri x from the 60's 70's, but even then it has something that is simply Fomapan, For 120 and 35mm I develop it for 18 minutes in Rodinal 1/50, and 8 minutes in D76 stock.
Richard

The variable you did not mention is EI. If your negatives are thin overall you should consider a lower EI.

Shootar401 said:

And for those of you who used it can you recommend a starting time on development? Currently I'm developing them in D76 1:1 for 10 mins and my negs seem a little thin and lack contrast compared to TMAx and Delta.

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If the negatives are 'thin' - as in poor shadow detail - you are not exposing enough. Bracket your exposures from 100 to 400 and see where you land. Pick your film speed based on that.
If you have low contrast, you are not developing enough. Again, after you figure out appropriate film speed in above step, vary your developing time until you have good contrast.

Final negative contrast is almost entirely under your control with exposure and development, where the film characteristics are constant, but how you use the film is a variable, and it's unique to each and every one of us.

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/product_pdfs/aristaedu_ultra/AristaEDU_Ultra_400.pdf
Freestyle, which packages and re-sells the Foma film as the Arista.EDU 400 that you're using, recommends 12-13 minutes with D76 1:1. Try that first, and then make adjustments.

So far I've shot the EDU 100 and expose and develop at 100. I do have 400 on order.

Shootar401 said:

So far I've shot the EDU 100 and expose and develop at 100. I do have 400 on order.

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Regardless, the logic of exposure and development is true.

More shadow detail = more exposure
More contrast = longer development time.

Shootar401 said:

So far I've shot the EDU 100 and expose and develop at 100. I do have 400 on order.

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The Forma Data sheets seems to suggest that Formapan 100 developed in D 76 stock has a true film speed of 100, Formapan 400 on the other hand seems to top out at 320 with Microphen and just under 300 with D 76 stock. Matches my experience, I shoot 100 at 100 and develop in D76 1:1 with good shadow detail, 400 at 200 developed in Microdal X 1:3 with good shadow details. I shoot Forma 200 at 125 and develop in D76 1:1. Others have posted that the shoot 100 at 50.

I routinly rate Foma and Arista at half box speed and develope in PMK Pyro or Pyrocat-HD to harden the emulsion as it scratches easily. I also use water instead of acid stop to negate pinholes in the emulsion.