Quick note on Cerakote and refinishing cameras

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Dan Daniel

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I posted a photo of a Medalist II that I had black Cerakoted in the medium format forum. I thought I'd say a bit more about what I learned in having this done.

Cerakote is a ceramic coating that is applied to metal and then baked. It is used on guns most often. Similar to powder coating in some ways.


The Cerakote material has thickness, and for a camera this buildup is not insignificant. The process is usually used on guns and the finisher I used was used to guns. I showed him assorted parts fitups and he saw no problems from applying Cerakote. Well, he was wrong. I simply threw out the Cerakoted focus helical and used the back anodized one from a first type Medalist becasue the helical was too tight and unsuable. Threads on screws needed to be cleaned up repeatedly. Fit up at joints were off. Be prepared for this. Talk with the coater to see if you can do prep work to shield threads, etc.

It is not a dust-free operation. I believe that the material is applied in a liquid base and then heated. Not like powder coating where electrostatic adhesion reduces dust.

Prep of the base involves sandblasting; well, walnust shell blasting is what they used I think. This creates masking issues as masking will simply be shredded away. Look for mechanical solutions- put screws in tubing to protect threads, for example.

From my experience, I'd guess that gun people are not looking at finish in the same way that a camera person might be. Issues of consistent coating, dust reduction, material build up mean different things to different traditions. Find a coater who will deal with your obsessive requests.

OK, now for the good: it is a strong material and coating. Not permanent and it will chip and rub down. But pretty darn strong. I think that it would be able to make a very nice end product if proper prep, application, and attention to tolerances and fit issues are handled well.
 

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MFstooges

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Yeah I also learned my lesson and will spend more time to prep the camera and close all threads. I had a camera electroplated and some of the threads became tight but not unusable. The shop also didn't spend a single minute to pre-polish before plating, it's crazy.
The black helicoid was anodized, so what was the reason you didn't choose anodizing?
 
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Dan Daniel

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Yeah I also learned my lesson and will spend more time to prep the camera and close all threads. I had a camera electroplated and some of the threads became tight but not unusable. The shop also didn't spend a single minute to pre-polish before plating, it's crazy.
The black helicoid was anodized, so what was the reason you didn't choose anodizing?
There isn't an anodizer in the area. And I am not familiar with the process. The guy I did the Cerakote for is a machinist and a gun owner who is familiar with Cerakote so he knew it would work.

Does anodizing lead to a solid color? I think of things like purple brakes on bicycles :smile: The 1940s anodizing on the helicals on the Medalist are well-done, solid (no translucency) and hold up very well.
 
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Dan Daniel

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I use Testors model paint. It's an enamel. Using a tothpick tip I drip into the engravings. Let it dry for a few hours. Then use a cotton swab with a bit of naphtha to wipe away the excess. Fairly dry swab- I have some that are very tight, not soft. Clothe wrapped around a small tube like a pen can work. I know people who use make-up sponges for this purpose. Lightly wipe across the engraving. Slowly the excess starts coming away. Go slow, and be prepared to need to do it all again.

There are a variety of techniques out there for this kind of in-fill. I've used lacquer in the past- drip in then quickly wipe with a small piece of wood covered with a taut layer of clothe. You also use acrylic paint and water.

All in all it's patience and trial and error and error and error and error...
 

MFstooges

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The black cerakote, do you think it can be used for the film/mirror box as non reflective coating? Or is it more reflective than normal black coat?
 
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Dan Daniel

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The black cerakote, do you think it can be used for the film/mirror box as non reflective coating? Or is it more reflective than normal black coat?
I'd consider it more reflective. BUT!!! I am not very informed on the process. I know that gloss level can be changed by thinning (and heating?) changes.

All in all I'd look for flat black model paints or more technical flat blacks before the Cerakote all in all. Maybe someone here has more experience with its glass levels.
 
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