Quick lith question

Jarvman · Oct 12, 2008

It is strange. I just chucked the last batch and did 50a+50b 950 water and 500ml old brown which is what I started off doing and was consitantly good, now nothing. Can't see why the chemicals would be bad. Maybe changing the filtration has had this effect. :|

mrtoml · Oct 12, 2008

Are you using the same tray for dev that you always use? Is it clean?

If you have some other chemical residue in the dev tray (eg like you used it for fixer or stop in the past) then this can kill the developer.

Jarvman · Oct 12, 2008

Yup, just went back to grade 5 and it's working again now. The chemistry is fine. The grade 0 test strip that gave me an exposure of 8 secs for the contrast I wanted which I then added 3 stops making it 64secs never did though. odd.

and no the tray is always used for dev, washed it out in the bathtub erlier and wiped it clean

mrtoml · Oct 12, 2008

Very odd. What is the time with grade 5?

Jarvman · Oct 12, 2008

80 secs at f/5.6 on grade 5 compared with 64secs at f/11 with grade 0. I got the first time from my notes but that was using 25ml a+25ml b instead of 50ml+50ml so the print isn't as contrasty as with using a a weaker dilution. Do your prints normally whistle and give off bubbles when you drop them in the stop?

mrtoml · Oct 12, 2008

80s/f5.6 = 320s/f11. Assuming to take off a stop for grade 5 (depends on the enlarger) and you get about 160s/f11 at grade 0. So maybe you relatively underexposed when you did the grade 0. Not sure really. You still should have got something.

Jarvman · Oct 12, 2008

ok, here's one thing I've just figured out, the timer goes to grade 0.0 then goes 0.09 0.08 0.07 etc... to grade 0.00. Stupid enlarger. It was supposed to save paper. Should've got something manual not automated.

Solarize · Oct 16, 2008

Thomas Bertilsson said:
Ciaran,

You are most likely going into reciprocity failure between time and exposure of the paper. At this point (7 minutes), even if you left the light on for 20 minutes, it would probably not make much difference in the print.
Pre-flashing definitely helps in obtaining highlight density and color. And it cuts down your exposure times to reasonable levels.

Interesting about the bromide. I wonder when Wolfgang is going to see this thread, and now the 'Quick Lith Question' thread title is also mis-representing the content...

- Thomas

Solarize said:

Thomas,

Reciprocity didn't even cross my mind, but you are quite right. In this instance those 'hot' highlights are working for me, but flashing will be a real bonus for most subjects I am sure.

I've uploaded a few examples in the gallery - as reference to my points before.

Cheers,
Ciaran

Click to expand...

Rich Ullsmith · Oct 16, 2008

Jarvman, I really think you were on the right track by putting a sheet in the pan and turning on the lights. This is a great exercise in finding out what is right/wrong about your soup. If it has enough SQ for infectious development, you will see it. If you get no development and you have fresh developer, perhaps too much bromide in the OB. Drop a pinch of sulfite or bromide on the paper, see what it needs to get hot.

Quick lith question

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