Feel free to ask questions. There are no stupid questions except the ones that are not asked.
Hi,
I need to know that deep because I have a project to do revolving around shooting analogue.
Ihope the attached helps with understanding MTFcurvesHi,
I am new to analogue photography and there are some things I don't understand about the data of analogue filmnegatives, so I would be really thankful if someone could take the time to explain it to me.
The first thing is, what does the number 135-36 on the packaging of those films mean?
Secondly, in datasheets for Koda color negatives, there are some filters required for specific light, like for Kodak Portra 800 it is said that daylight requires a Filter of 40R. Does anyone know where to get this filters? I can't find them anywhere.
The third question is how to use the density curves of blue, red and green of the datasheet to calculate the best exposure.and lightning. I do not understand the mathematics yet, neither do I understand the Log H Ref value. Does anyone know how to use this values correctly?
It also would be very nice and helpful if someone could expalin how to understand the MTF curve. I read something about it, but it's still not really clear to me.
I need to know that deep because I have a project to do revolving around shooting analogue.
Thanks a lot in advance and best regards
Hi,
Secondly, in datasheets for Koda color negatives, there are some filters required for specific light, like for Kodak Portra 800 it is said that daylight requires a Filter of 40R. Does anyone know where to get this filters? I can't find them anywhere.
The third question is how to use the density curves of blue, red and green of the datasheet to calculate the best exposure.and lightning. I do not understand the mathematics yet, neither do I understand the Log H Ref value. Does anyone know how to use this values correctly?
Most of are writing to the OP as a new user of film who needs to know the basics but I think that as he has a project to write on quite technical aspects of photography he needs to know a lot more that normal user information. However he has yet to confirm this or tells us at what level his project has to be written.
Members must do what they must do of course but if our aim is to help the OP in his project then we need to know more to be able to do this or so I feel.
pentaxuser
It also would be very nice and helpful if someone could expalin how to understand the MTF curve. I read something about it, but it's still not really clear to me.
Secondly, in datasheets for Koda color negatives, there are some filters required for specific light, like for Kodak Portra 800 it is said that daylight requires a Filter of 40R. Does anyone know where to get this filters? I can't find them anywhere.
Hi,
The third question is how to use the density curves of blue, red and green of the datasheet to calculate the best exposure.and lightning. I do not understand the mathematics yet, neither do I understand the Log H Ref value. Does anyone know how to use this values correctly?
In the long past films were characterized (aside of other characteristics) by resolution.
Very simplified that means lines/per length unit.
Black and white lines were aligned and looked to what miniaturisation of image a film could still resolve these.
Here already two issues come to play: the contrast between the original black and white line, the minum contrast a human eye can still resolve lines.
But still for the amateur the resolution is the best method to differ films for detail reproduction.
The reslolution typically is given in Line-Pairs/mm
Often when Lines/mm ist stated actually Line-Pairs per millimeter is meant.
Important is the original contrast. Big manufacturers typically give 2 different contrasts and stated them. The respective resolutions vary strongly, thus one should only compare respective resolutions!
The MTF concept found ground in the 60's. It is rather aimed at photo-engineers.
Its idea is to include the contrast issue!
Simply said: the contrast of a line-pair is taken as 100%. Then it is reproduced, with the "frequency" (that is the number of line-pairs per millimeter) rising, and at each step the the resulting contrast measured.
The MTF can be applied on the whole reproduction process, thus including optics, camera, film. It can yield very different results. For instance a high-contrast reproduction that falls off rapidly, or a reproduction that goes much further into high frequencies but at lower contrasrt rather soon.
The latter system would be good for aerial photo-reconnaissance. But only the former would yield an image that in Germany once was called "brilliant". For the amateur it is important to understand this. But this is about the only thing of the MTF concept an amateur should understand for the whole process: that there are two entities, resolution and contrast.
Wow! That's a lot of films to be getting started with! Might I suggest limiting it to two colour and one (or two) for B&W - at least in the early days. Both Ektar and Portra are very forgiving films, capable of amazing results and excellent dynamic range (exposure latitude).Thank you so much!
The films I have chosen are:
Kodak Ultramax 400; Kodak Gold 200; Kodak Ektar 100; Kodak T-max 3200; Kodak Portra 160; Kodak Portra 400; Kodak Portra 800
I've chosen them to have a good range of ISO values and Emulsion forms.
Best regards
Yes, I have to write a scientific report. In detail, it is about comparing analogue photography to digital (in look).
Thanks!^^^another excellent example of what makes APUG great.
@Les Sarile Thank you!!!
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