Questions RE developing old C-41 film

[Michael Guzzi]

Hello all,

I have found 4 rolls of consumer grade Fuji film lying on a box here, and after looking on an old point-and-shoot we have, I've found an additional roll of Ferrania Solaris. I have developed all the rolls on a pre-diluted kit I bought, identical to this one:

http://www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk/firstcall-c41-prediluted-kit-3x-500ml-softpack/p5157

And used Digibase C-41 stabilizer bought separately. Since this was the first time I developed any C-41 film, I would like to ask a few questions to the very knowledgeable folks around here:

1-These films, with the possible exception of the Ferrania one, are pre-2000 (I have a package of one of them that states expiration 8/1998). Do I need the "old" C-41 stab for them?

2-I noticed a dramatic color change on the chemicals, especially the developer, that turned a deep purple on the first roll, and by the 5th, looks now a very rich red. Bleach turned amber-like and fix rather grey. Stabilizer got a light red tint to it. Is this normal?

3-Also, because the stabilizer was foaming quite a bit I was afraid to let the films dry as they came out of the reel, so I gave them a rinse in tempered water after the stabilizer. I have read here that this is a no-no, as it nullifies the stab bath effect. What should I do? Is that foaming normal? I followed agitation procedure to the letter.

4-I've read on numerous places that both sides of the film should be shiny, unlike traditional B/W film. There is a slight difference between either side of the rolls, ie one side is less "shiny". Is this normal, or I may have contaminated one or more baths already? I also noticed that from the 2nd roll onwards the film base looked slightly darker, when loaded on the reels it looked slightly brown and dull. Now that they are dry they all look the same.

Any input is greatly appreciated.


Michael

 

[sfaber17]

1. I would guess you need the old stabilizer but not sure of the cutoff. The old has formaldehyde and works with new films ok. You can make it yourself. That may help with foaming also since you can cut down on the photoflow. I use 1.5 ml photoflow per liter with 7-10 ml or so 37% formalin.
2. Depending if you pre-rinse, you may get anti-halation layer colors washing out that are the bluish, and then the developer gets more red or orange as it is used. Maybe you need more washing if your stabilizer is pink.
3. Try mixing the stabilizer in a separate beaker, let the foam settle, gently lower the roll into it and gently move up and down while submerged. I don't think you need inversion style agitation. Slowly remove and hang the film in dust free bathroom (pre-shower fogged).
4. This is normal, since 35mm only has gelatin on the one side which will still look a bit duller. The color film comes out looking milky on one side like it didn't get fixed, but then it gets clear when it is dry.

 

[MattKing]

This thread suggests a lot, including that you do need the old stabilizer: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Photo Engineer supplies a formula in the first post.

 

[Michael Guzzi]

(there was a url link here which no longer exists),(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Thanks for the responses, as per the thread mentioned above (how did I miss it??? It's even a sticky!), I will procure some Formalin.

Also RE the washing, I do it the same as I do for B/W, a slightly modified (one more step) "Ilford wash". I'll probably do a test roll of fresh film this weekend and will add more wash to see if it helps. And I will follow the advice regarding the agitation on the stabilizer bath; the paterson tank I use has given me some foaming problems with HC-110 as well, maybe I agitate too vigorously, will try to reduce it.