Questions and Observations.....

St. Clair Beach Solitude

D
St. Clair Beach Solitude

  • 8
  • 2
  • 101
Reach for the sky

H
Reach for the sky

  • 3
  • 4
  • 140
Agawa Canyon

A
Agawa Canyon

  • 3
  • 2
  • 173

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,873
Messages
2,782,390
Members
99,738
Latest member
fergusfan
Recent bookmarks
0

tequilabong

I've become quite intimate with my Enlarger over the last few months, and have discovered a few interesting things. Have other users found the same?

Just to clarify things......

I'm using the VC head, with the Z6 controller, zone vi compensating timer, and the darkroom temp is usually about 60 degrees. Hey, it's cold in the winter.

I've also been reading that if you have a stabilized light source, (as this head is), a compensating timer is not necessary????? I can tell the compensating timer is working.....As evidenced by the "time" it takes with the blue vs. the green.

I've also read that many people say an x second exposure with the green and an x second exposure with the blue will be equal to doing them together at the same time. Perhaps true with under the lens filters and a different light source?
But this can not be true with this head/timer combo....As the "time" settings are relative depending on the light output. 5 seconds on the timer can be closer to 15 seconds of real time with just the blue... Have other users found this to be the case??

The intensity of the green light is almost 2 stops brighter than the blue.....After digging out the good 'ole Ilford EM10 that was confirmed.

It is next to impossible to get the green stabilized light to appear if the brightness is cranked all the way up. (when using just the green).

It will stabilize must faster with the blue light vs. the green. And of course, the brighter it is, the longer it takes.

After waiting sometimes like 30 seconds for it to "stabilize", I've taken measurements and the light doesn't seem to change at all when waiting for the little green light to appear!! So I'm surmising it is not that important to wait for the light? Anyone else find this to be true??

As to the intensity, the green is so much more powerful than the blue, the light output varies very little from just green vs. green combined with all blue......weird...

When using the controller, is max green supposed to equal 0 or 00 and max blue supposed to equal 4 or 5?

If both knobs are set to max, or equal settings is the contrast supposedly to be normal, or approximately grade 2?

So, any of this make sense? Do I have a weak blue tube? Or is it normal behavior for this head?


OK, I understand this post contains plenty of observations and questions....(hey, at least my subject is accurate).
 

schrollphoto

I'm new to this site/forum but I have been using a Zone VI enlarger (type II) with comp. timer for about 10 years now and I love it! I do fine art prints (mostly landscape) up to 20x24 inches on Ilford VC paper. Over the years I have found this set up to be the most consistent I have ever worked with. I log my specs on a homemade sheet giving, height of head, lens, f-stop, filter settings (hard and soft), and time. I have never messed with the timer after initial set up. I have gone back after 3 or 4 years to fill an order for a specific print and hit the exposure right on the nose!! I have always been amazed by this outfit. I have used Omega D2's and Leica Focomat's over the years and this by far is the best enlarger I have ever used. I only make about 40 to 50 big prints a year so I am not hard users but, it is a joy to go to the darkroom on weekends and have a consistent piece of equipment waiting for me. Now, if I could only get that good at exposing film and picking the right subject matter!!
 

Keith Pitman

I'm speculating here about the difference in the light intensity between the green and blue lights. My guess is that they are equal in the effect on the paper when set to the same setting because the paper has different sensitivity to the colors of the lights.

Here are the settings that work for me (soft setting first):

0 = Max/Min
1 = Max/E
2 = E/E
3 = D/Max
4 = B/Max
5 = Off/Max
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom