tequilabong
I've become quite intimate with my Enlarger over the last few months, and have discovered a few interesting things. Have other users found the same?
Just to clarify things......
I'm using the VC head, with the Z6 controller, zone vi compensating timer, and the darkroom temp is usually about 60 degrees. Hey, it's cold in the winter.
I've also been reading that if you have a stabilized light source, (as this head is), a compensating timer is not necessary????? I can tell the compensating timer is working.....As evidenced by the "time" it takes with the blue vs. the green.
I've also read that many people say an x second exposure with the green and an x second exposure with the blue will be equal to doing them together at the same time. Perhaps true with under the lens filters and a different light source?
But this can not be true with this head/timer combo....As the "time" settings are relative depending on the light output. 5 seconds on the timer can be closer to 15 seconds of real time with just the blue... Have other users found this to be the case??
The intensity of the green light is almost 2 stops brighter than the blue.....After digging out the good 'ole Ilford EM10 that was confirmed.
It is next to impossible to get the green stabilized light to appear if the brightness is cranked all the way up. (when using just the green).
It will stabilize must faster with the blue light vs. the green. And of course, the brighter it is, the longer it takes.
After waiting sometimes like 30 seconds for it to "stabilize", I've taken measurements and the light doesn't seem to change at all when waiting for the little green light to appear!! So I'm surmising it is not that important to wait for the light? Anyone else find this to be true??
As to the intensity, the green is so much more powerful than the blue, the light output varies very little from just green vs. green combined with all blue......weird...
When using the controller, is max green supposed to equal 0 or 00 and max blue supposed to equal 4 or 5?
If both knobs are set to max, or equal settings is the contrast supposedly to be normal, or approximately grade 2?
So, any of this make sense? Do I have a weak blue tube? Or is it normal behavior for this head?
OK, I understand this post contains plenty of observations and questions....(hey, at least my subject is accurate).
Just to clarify things......
I'm using the VC head, with the Z6 controller, zone vi compensating timer, and the darkroom temp is usually about 60 degrees. Hey, it's cold in the winter.
I've also been reading that if you have a stabilized light source, (as this head is), a compensating timer is not necessary????? I can tell the compensating timer is working.....As evidenced by the "time" it takes with the blue vs. the green.
I've also read that many people say an x second exposure with the green and an x second exposure with the blue will be equal to doing them together at the same time. Perhaps true with under the lens filters and a different light source?
But this can not be true with this head/timer combo....As the "time" settings are relative depending on the light output. 5 seconds on the timer can be closer to 15 seconds of real time with just the blue... Have other users found this to be the case??
The intensity of the green light is almost 2 stops brighter than the blue.....After digging out the good 'ole Ilford EM10 that was confirmed.
It is next to impossible to get the green stabilized light to appear if the brightness is cranked all the way up. (when using just the green).
It will stabilize must faster with the blue light vs. the green. And of course, the brighter it is, the longer it takes.
After waiting sometimes like 30 seconds for it to "stabilize", I've taken measurements and the light doesn't seem to change at all when waiting for the little green light to appear!! So I'm surmising it is not that important to wait for the light? Anyone else find this to be true??
As to the intensity, the green is so much more powerful than the blue, the light output varies very little from just green vs. green combined with all blue......weird...
When using the controller, is max green supposed to equal 0 or 00 and max blue supposed to equal 4 or 5?
If both knobs are set to max, or equal settings is the contrast supposedly to be normal, or approximately grade 2?
So, any of this make sense? Do I have a weak blue tube? Or is it normal behavior for this head?
OK, I understand this post contains plenty of observations and questions....(hey, at least my subject is accurate).