Questions about filters for SFX-200

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pbromaghin

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I have been wanting to try Ilford SFX-200 for some time now, but just can't find any of the recommended filters. With regular red filters it looks pretty much like any other filtered B&W film, but grainier, which sounds like a waste of time and money. The data sheet recommends:
a) Very deep red - ILFORD SFX, B+W RG665, B+W 092, Heliopan 695 and 715, Hoya R72 and Kodak Wratten 89B for the greatest effect.

or b) Deep red - B+W 091, Heliopan 29, Kodak Wratten 29 and Rodenstock 29 for somewhat less effect.

These seem to be pretty rare, as I have had some traders and camera store people try to tell me they don't even exist. I am willing to let the filter size determine the lens and format, just to give it a try.

To those who use this film, what filters do you use and where did you find them? Also, the Ilford filter comes only as a plastic sheet - how does one use these?
 

xtolsniffer

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Probably the cheapest and easiest way into this is a Cokin P holder and a P007 filter, it's usually suggested it's the same as an 89B. The filter holders can be had for virtually nothing these days. The filter is a little more expensive.
 

Lachlan Young

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I have been wanting to try Ilford SFX-200 for some time now, but just can't find any of the recommended filters. With regular red filters it looks pretty much like any other filtered B&W film, but grainier, which sounds like a waste of time and money. The data sheet recommends:
a) Very deep red - ILFORD SFX, B+W RG665, B+W 092, Heliopan 695 and 715, Hoya R72 and Kodak Wratten 89B for the greatest effect.

or b) Deep red - B+W 091, Heliopan 29, Kodak Wratten 29 and Rodenstock 29 for somewhat less effect.

These seem to be pretty rare, as I have had some traders and camera store people try to tell me they don't even exist. I am willing to let the filter size determine the lens and format, just to give it a try.

To those who use this film, what filters do you use and where did you find them? Also, the Ilford filter comes only as a plastic sheet - how does one use these?

If you're in Europe, Fotoimpex sell the Heliopan filters in a wide variety of mounts - they can also ship worldwide. Speed Graphic sells the Cokin, Hoya & B+W filters I recall too.

The SFX filter was/ is a Cokin system filter I recall - similar to the Lee Filters holder system etc.

One thing you should be aware of is that SFX is not deeply sensitised to IR - the recommended filters in the data sheet are generally 690-720nm transmission & there are a number of filters (especially in the Heliopan range) that go much higher - even as far as 1000nm which you want to avoid.
 

DWThomas

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I tried it with an assortment of filters and a Wratten 89B and got fair results. Unfortunately I acquired the filter circa 1964!
But B&H carries a selection.

Ditto what Lachlan Young says, you definitely don't want a cut-off higher than 720, as SFX-200 barely gets beyond that. (Somewhere I've seen data that suggests the 89B is about 695.)
 

Svenedin

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The Hoya R72 is not that hard to find but you will probably have to order online. An alternative is the Heliopan RG715 (I bought one in the odd size 40.5mm recently from a photographic retailer on amazon.co.uk). I have had far better results with Rollei IR 400 than with SFX and the Rollei film is much cheaper. From my supplier SFX is £9.68 for a roll of 120 or £5.98 for the Rollei. As IR is unpredictable, I thought it was better to use the cheaper film (which also has an extended IR range compared to SFX).

I have only 3 screw-in IR filters (they are expensive), two Hoya R72 and a Heliopan RG715. This covers me for MF and 35mm. I have also used these filters on lenses smaller than the filter by just holding the filter in place over the lens. I think I bought one of the R72 filters on the well known auction site.
 

Andrew O'Neill

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Don't expect much from this film if you're looking for that IR look. I've shot it with the #72 and get some wood effect. It's really just a regular B/W film with extended red sensitivity.
 

jim appleyard

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I use the Hoya R72 with this film and am quite happy with it. While it is not a true IR film, it can give an IR look with certain filters. I usually use a Nikon N70 and an EI of 200. It meters well, but I cannot use an FM2 at the same EI. Don't know why, just is. I usually shoot this film in the summer when the leaves are on the trees and the grass is green; all that green reflects a lot of IR back at you and looks like snow on the film.
 
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pbromaghin

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Thanks for all the help, and so quickly! I am checking B&H and coming up with some pretty interesting results. Now it looks like I'll have to choose whether to start with 35mm or 6x6. Decisions, decisions...
 

MattKing

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A rangefinder or a TLR are much easier to use than an SLR!
 

Svenedin

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Agreed it's difficult to use an SLR. You can focus and then put the filter on but it's a nuisance. Alternatively, for landscapes, you might be always be at infinity anyway. Remember some lenses have a red mark to adjust focus for IR. I'm not sure how important this is for "near infrared" wavelengths.
 
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pbromaghin

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It seem to be steering toward the Mamiya tlr. It's just too fun to shoot with and B&H has a 46mm R72 filter.
 

MattKing

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It seem to be steering toward the Mamiya tlr. It's just too fun to shoot with and B&H has a 46mm R72 filter.
That is what I used for the IR experiments in my APUG gallery.

I bought a 49mm filter and a 46 - 49mm step up ring. That permits me to use the filter on both my Mamiya TLR lenses - 65 and 135 mm.

I don't worry much about adjusting focus, because the relatively short, near IR wavelengths that the films are sensitive to are so close to visible light. It was different in the past with films like the Kodak and Efke ones.
 

Toffle

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As others have pointed out, SFX is not so much IR as "Extended Red" film. I've had pretty good results with an R72 with this film, albeit somewhat grainy with 35mm. I very much prefer SFX in 120 format. With the relative scarcity of true IR films (I don't even know what's left out there now) it gives a reasonable approximation of the IR shooting experience.

One note of caution, though I can't recall if this concerns SFX, some more "modern" 35mm cameras measure frame spacing by reading the sprocket holes with IR. (correct me if my details are wrong) This can result in fogging of the film rebate, or even a more substantial portion of the image area of the film. My N80 did this with HIE, but not enough to ruin the images.

Cheers,
Tom

[EDIT] I seem to recall reading that it is recommended metering SFX at ISO 12, but I have had my best results at ISO 6. (Seems low, but I used to meter the long-gone Maco 820 at ISO 1.5... despite some QC issues, it was quite a stunning film.)
 
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Old-N-Feeble

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Wha-a-a-a-t?? No one is posting examples?? :smile:
 

jim appleyard

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1543-6.jpg SFX, R72 filter, EI 200 (TTL with filter), Nikon N70, Tamron 28-105 f/4, HC-110, 9 min, Dil.B.
 
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pbromaghin

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Oh, my. That's why I want to try this film.

B&H also has R72 available in 35.5mm, bringing the Ikonta into consideration.
 

M Carter

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I really prefer going deep red or so-so IR filtering, and getting some lightening of foliage vs. full-on IR. But I'm sorta "seen one white tree, you've seen 'em all", personal preference. So I very, very much like Rollei's IR400 film. Excellent grain for a 400. This is a lith print with a piece of deep red lighting gel in a compendium hood's filter slot. Really love how that film jacks with the contrast, sort of match-made-in-heaven for lith prints.
QCDVO7D.jpg
 
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pbromaghin

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Great photo all the way around. Beautiful urban decay.
 

jim appleyard

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Thank you. I like M Carter's as well; pretty cool. Yes, a lot of white trees do look like white trees you've seen before, but here in the southern Adirondacks, we have a lot of pitch pines (they grow in area across northern US to Michigan) and they come out extra white and the tree always looks like its about to die, but is in fact in good health.

Here's one from Record Hill overlooking Lake George with the pitch pines blowing in the wind due to the long shutter speed.
 

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jim appleyard

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1638-20A.jpg Although I don't care for my composition in this one, I do like the lighting. Sunrise(with sun behind me), Lake George
 
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pbromaghin

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After all those great recommendations, here's what's happening:

I ordered 3 rolls of sfx in 120 and a Hoya R72 filter (from B&H) for the Zeiss Ikonta 6x6 and they arrived this morning! However, since winter has arrived in Colorado, it might be a while before I get to shoot it - white snow is white no matter what film you use. In the mean time, does anybody recommend a speed I should use for incident metering? Ilford recommends +4 stops (iso 12) with the R72, but a couple writers on the web have said to add 2 or even 3 more than that! I'll be developing in D-76 with constant roller agitation.
 

DWThomas

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In a test mentioned upthread I used EI 6 with an 89B. I suspect with an R72 which has slightly higher cutoff (best I can tell), another stop would be a good idea. I generally do a bunch of bracketing with the view that this IR stuff falls into the "grand experiment" category. It's also good advice to shoot one frame unfiltered at nominal ISO on a first effort to verify the processing, although that is probably more important with film further into the IR spectrum.
 
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