Questions About Durst M601 Enlarger

Definitely you lose bellows extension if the lensboard is recessed, limiting the smaller size enlargements, however it might not matter to you, and you can always use the Setopla until you find a flat lensboard.

You also might be able to find a lens extender. 15 to 25 mm length should be OK.

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Voiceumana; What a great suggestion. I tried a Nikkor 63mm on my LPL, set previously for a 4x6 print, using the recommended LPL recessed board for a 50mm focal length. To project the -135 neg on a speed easel the head was raised an inch or so; works great as I could then position a Microsight under the lens. The illuminated f/stops were in plain sight and not hidden by their position to the lens board. A Twofer!!! Ill try it out with a 80mm optic later.

Wow!!! so as you suggested I can use the 15mm extension with the SETPOLA and save money.

The 601 instructions mention adjusting the head forward (X) to prevent the column obstructing the easel with increased enlargement factors. What a good feature. I can't tell from the illustrations how far the head slides forward.

My unique modification was to David White's 600 or 601 at his cabin in Newfoundland was to fit the light socket with a 13W compact flourescent spiral type household bulb.
I then cut the side out of a translucent milk jug that was headed for the trash to act as a diffuser, to even out the light output of this odd shaped lamp before it got to the condensors.

There was a slot just outside of the lamp house on the way to the condensors that was perfect to hold this diffuser. Heat was not a problem with this lamp.

This was done because electrical supply to the cottage is from a rooftop mounted 20W solar panel and charge controller powered deep cycle battery bank of two automotive sized batteries, that run a 12V to 120V ac invertor.

With the 13W bulb there was enough power to print for 3-4 hours, and also have a light on in the other room for my wife to read by or do a jigsaw puzzle.

Mike, I have a CFB in a Kodak 10x12 Safe Light. Primary reason to reduce heat. So it's not a leap to use one in an enlarger. Your problem solving using available plastic is commendable. Is the light even?

Even enough that I could not see the difference printing test shots through a fogged piece of leader, mostly to substitute for a more calibrated shot of standard 18% test card that was 1500km away when I jury rigged this thing up.

Looking for a more portable enlarger (ie Durst 601's) I located another like-new 601 with CLS head. I can avoid shipping charges resulting in the CLS being less expensive vs the M601. I print with both a condenser and color head. I'm aware of each heads properties through experience.

I researched photo-net enlarger posts and saw some complaints. A few wrote the CLS light source was too bright. One had to stop down to f/16 for a 6x6 inch projection. The suggested fix was to dial in neutral density. Others claim the illumination too weak and the corners would vignette.

The vignetting problem seems to be configuration issues.

The weak or too strong illumination is unclear. Typical MF enlargements on my system are 6x8 inch B&W prints at f/8 to f/11 in a range of 14-30s. Is this timer and f/stop range what I can expect using a CLS head without dialing in neutral density?

Although I use the condenser head much more than the color head, really an insert, I dont have any issues with brightness with 6X6, it is somewhat dim with 35mm, my guess is that I have the 6X6 light mixing box. I understand that there is 35mm mixing box, on my long list of to dos is making 35mm box as I have never seen on for sale.

The 35mm mixing box is labled; Sivobox 35.

The M600 was my first enlarger. Still have it, bought it 40 years ago, and it still works, it is a very well designed and very well built enlarger. I set it up every 3-4 years...

jk0592 said:

The M600 was my first enlarger. Still have it, bought it 40 years ago, and it still works, it is a very well designed and very well built enlarger. I set it up every 3-4 years...

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Oh my, one must be more active than that. Have to keep suppliers alive.

"The 601 instructions mention adjusting the head forward (X) to prevent the column obstructing the easel with increased enlargement factors. What a good feature. I can't tell from the illustrations how far the head slides forward."

I picked up a like new M601 CLS 66. The head moves forwarding at least 2 inches on the bearing to a red line marked on the bearing bolt. It will lock in the extended position. Useful! Changes in elevation are smoother than my LPL 670. The 601 focus is also smooth. It's more convenient to remove the head on the M601 helping in portability.

The plastic LPL neg carriers are nicer in some ways & LPL has a masking glass carrier. The LPL has less column vibration vs the shorter and heavier 601 column.

A warning to others. Although I got the two mixing boxes I failed to ensure It came with a proper carrier for my -135 and MF needs. It had a glassless Sironeg carrier with SIDIA 5x5 insert. So buyer beware.

If anyone knows if a local glass firm can cut glass to fit or if someone has a carrier let me know.

Most of my 645 MF enlargements are full frame on 8x10

When not using a speed easel I use one of two four blade easels. With a 33 inch/85cm column I expect the base of the column will obstruct the smaller Saunders 11x17 easel when printing 9x12 inches in a portrait orientation.

What is the most convenient 4 blade easel to use for my size enlargements with a M601?

Does a M601 heat up with a 75W bulb?

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I printed with the Durst 601 using the condensers vs the color head; still working through the CLS illumination issues. I'm answering my own questions which may assist those looking at buying a used 601. The Saunders 14x17 inch easel is not restricted by the column with my enlargements. There is a neat trick to extend the head a few inches on the mount bearing to give more easel room if required.

The 75w recommended bulb does not get hot and is no issue. I am using the 50mm Setopla lens panel, raised side towards the baseboard, with a 80mm f/5.6 enlarging lens. I have adequate bellows and comfortable head height when enlarging to a 5x factor, 6x6 or 6x8 inches. Did not check smaller enlargements.

The one time I used the enlarger with 2 glass inserts I had no dust problems. One negative was in the enlarger for 60 min and the print required no spotting. I know this will not always be the case but I'm hopeful it won't be a problem.

This is the best compact enlarger I have seen. Far better than an Omega B-22 and its competitors.

voceumana said:

Lapla is the flat lensboard, and best for 75 or 80 mm lenses; Setopla is the recessed lensboard, and best for 50mm. You can use the Setlopla for the 75/80 mm but will be limited on the smallest print size. The Setopla cannot be reversed. Both were available in 25mm and 39mm threaded versions, and I found my Lapla 39mm lensboard on ebay.

I recommend a heat absorbing glass in the filter drawer, just on theoretical reasons--that would not have to be Durst, just one the right size.

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I only have the Setopla lens board and use the 601 to enlarge MF. Thanks to a member recommendation I confirmed the combination of a 15mm extension tube with the Setopla is the equivalent to using the correct flat board for 75/80mm optic. Now you can install the Setopia correctly.

If enlarging MF suggest using a PH212 150w with glass universal carrier.

Richard
Try Focal Point for your AN and clear glass for your negative carrier.
http://www.fpointinc.com/glass.htm

I will be contacting them to make me a set for my Durst L1000.