Question about using Pot. Ferri. and Hypo separately

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Roy Keane

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I've been trying to experiment with different ways of using Farmer's Reducer. Today I was playing with applying just the stock Ferricyanide part of Farmer's Reducer to a print with a q-tip, then rinsing and placing in a fixer bath.

However, when I applied the stock Ferri, without any further dilution to the paper, the bleaching started immediately.

Is this an indication that I have not adequately washed the fixer from the print? I was expecting nothing to happen until I put the print back into the fixer.
 

MattKing

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The fixer in Farmer's Reducer doesn't bleach, it removes the bleached and re-halogenated material, before it can be re-developed.
Your stock ferricyanide converted the image back into a silver halide which was then ready to be re-exposed and redeveloped again.
 

Ian Grant

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The bleach will work fast on it's own unlesss quite dilute, there's no Halide in Farmers reducer Matt so it's Silver Ferricyande complexes. I prefer to bleach with a dilute re-halogenating bleach this was something I did a lot when using various toners for hand colouringprints.

Ian
 

NedL

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I'm not sure how strong "stock Ferri' is, but potassium ferricyanide by itself will form silver/ferricyanide complexes and some of these are even soluble in water ( and even the ones that are not soluble will not be black like silver ) I suspect what you are trying to do will work better with very weak pot ferri, but I don't think what you are seeing is an indication of residual fixer. Good luck!

Edit: I see Ian already answered!
 

MattKing

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The bleach will work fast on it's own unlesss quite dilute, there's no Halide in Farmers reducer Matt so it's Silver Ferricyande complexes. I prefer to bleach with a dilute re-halogenating bleach this was something I did a lot when using various toners for hand colouringprints.

Ian
Oops, Ian is correct.
I always work with re-halogenating bleach instead of Farmers, and forgot!
 
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