Question about Sekonic L-208

[Laci Toth]

Hi all,

I’m about to purchase a Sekonic L-208 and I’m a bit confused when reading the specifications.
It says:
Display Range Shutter Speeds Ambient: 30 min to 1/8000 sec.
and then:
Display Range Analog Scale Shutter Speed: 30 sec. to 1/8000 sec.
As I’d like to take long exposures it makes sense to me if it’s 30 minutes or 30 seconds. I don’t really understand what is the difference between the ‘range shutter speed ambient’ and the ‘range analog scale shutter speed’.

 

[Laurent]

Hi!

My 208 only goes to 30 seconds, so I guess the specs have a typo.

 

[Laci Toth]

Hi!

My 208 only goes to 30 seconds, so I guess the specs have a typo.

Thanks for your reply!
I had this thought but I couldn’t believe it though there’s so many typos these days.

 

[Laci Toth]

Hi!

My 208 only goes to 30 seconds, so I guess the specs have a typo.

Could you tell me also how it behaves/is it accurate in low light situations or cloudy days/heavy cloudy days?

 

[runswithsizzers]

The specs say the measurement range is EV3-17 (ISO 100).

In my mind, there is a big difference between "heavy cloudy days" and "low light situations" I would think almost any light condition found outdoors in the daytime is going to be well above EV3. What I would consider to be "low light" can be found only at night or indoors.

According to <this Wikipedia link> "Heavy overcast" daylight is EV12 (ISO 100) - so no problems there. Even "Artifical Light, home interiors" is listed as EV 5-7, and "Christmas Tree Lights" at EV 4-5.

When I set my Sekonic L-208 at ISO 100 and EV3, the meter indicates camera settings between 1 second @ f/2.8 - and 30 seconds @ f/16.

 

[Laci Toth]

The specs say the measurement range is EV3-17 (ISO 100).

In my mind, there is a big difference between "heavy cloudy days" and "low light situations" I would think almost any light condition found outdoors in the daytime is going to be well above EV3. What I would consider to be "low light" can be found only at night or indoors.

According to <this Wikipedia link> "Heavy overcast" daylight is EV12 (ISO 100) - so no problems there. Even "Artifical Light, home interiors" is listed as EV 5-7, and "Christmas Tree Lights" at EV 4-5.

When I set my Sekonic L-208 at ISO 100 and EV3, the meter indicates camera settings between 1 second @ f/2.8 - and 30 seconds @ f/16.

Thanks for your response!
The reason why I’m interested is because I use iso 3 film, Washi W, which’s box speed is 25 but I’d a chat with the owner and he advised to set the meter to iso 3 on cloudy days especially in low light situations when it’s iso can go as low as 1. I also use Rollei RPX 25 and its reciprocity failure is pretty high so again I need very long exposures.
I had a Weston Master V but broke it and would need a replacement. It was a nice piece of kit, very accurate with tons of possibilities and without battery. Since then I found today Gossen Profisix and will give it a go.
It has:
Ambient sensitivity: -5 to +24LV

ASA/ISO range: ISO 0.8 to 100,000

Time range: 1/4,000s to 8 hours

and I think that’s what I need.
I’d love to have a digital stuff which is fast and accurate and has all these features and fits in my palm and doesn’t cost hundreds. It be nice to just switch it on and the result is there and that’s it.

 

[runswithsizzers]

Thanks for your response!
The reason why I’m interested is because I use iso 3 film, Washi W, which’s box speed is 25 but I’d a chat with the owner and he advised to set the meter to iso 3 on cloudy days especially in low light situations when it’s iso can go as low as 1. I also use Rollei RPX 25 and its reciprocity failure is pretty high so again I need very long exposures.
I had a Weston Master V but broke it and would need a replacement. It was a nice piece of kit, very accurate with tons of possibilities and without battery. Since then I found today Gossen Profisix and will give it a go.
It has:
Ambient sensitivity: -5 to +24LV

ASA/ISO range: ISO 0.8 to 100,000

Time range: 1/4,000s to 8 hours

and I think that’s what I need.
I’d love to have a digital stuff which is fast and accurate and has all these features and fits in my palm and doesn’t cost hundreds. It be nice to just switch it on and the result is there and that’s it.

Those are extreme numbers. Way outside of my experience. But I'm thinking you have left the realm of, "What light meter do I need?" - and entered the realm of, "What testing do I need to do to create the empirical data that will show me the correct exposure?"

 

[Laci Toth]

Those are extreme numbers. Way outside of my experience. But I'm thinking you have left the realm of, "What light meter do I need?" - and entered the realm of, "What testing do I need to do to create the empirical data that will show me the correct exposure?"

Yes, you’re right. I need a light meter which can show me extreme datas. I really thought that digital/modern light meters easily know these datas. Because what I need is so simple. After the amount of light was measured I just need a detailed dial so I’m able to read the numbers to determine the exposure. So I’ll check on this Gossen and see what’s gonna be the outcome.
Thanks for your thoughts again, wish you a nice weekend!

 

[runswithsizzers]

Yes, you’re right. I need a light meter which can show me extreme datas. I really thought that digital/modern light meters easily know these datas. Because what I need is so simple. After the amount of light was measured I just need a detailed dial so I’m able to read the numbers to determine the exposure. So I’ll check on this Gossen and see what’s gonna be the outcome.
Thanks for your thoughts again, wish you a nice weekend!

Actually, the point I was trying to make is that a new light meter is not going to solve your exposure problem. No light meter is going to be able account for reciprocity failure, therefore only testing different exposures can tell you what you need to know.

As a starting point, you can use any light meter and a little math. Take a reading at ISO 25 and decide which aperture you want to use. Look at the shutter speed (SS) for that aperture. Now double that shutter speed and that would be the correct SS for ISO 12.5; double it again for ISO 6.25, and double it again for ISO 3. But as I said, the meter reading can't account for reciprocity failure, so the actual shutter speed you need is likely to be longer than that. Only your testing will determine how much longer.

 

[Laci Toth]

Actually, the point I was trying to make is that a new light meter is not going to solve your exposure problem. No light meter is going to be able account for reciprocity failure, therefore only testing different exposures can tell you what you need to know.

As a starting point, you can use any light meter and a little math. Take a reading at ISO 25 and decide which aperture you want to use. Look at the shutter speed (SS) for that aperture. Now double that shutter speed and that would be the correct SS for ISO 12.5; double it again for ISO 6.25, and double it again for ISO 3. But as I said, the meter reading can't account for reciprocity failure, so the actual shutter speed you need is likely to be longer than that. Only your testing will determine how much longer.

Yes, you’re right again, it’s really not a big deal to count a bit and that’s what I do when it’s out of the meter’s ability but I’d like to save steps.
When I got the numbers from the light meter I always add the reciprocity failure numbers which was given by the manufacturers.

 

[jay moussy]

Just curious, are you leaning towards the Gossen or the Sekonic, and why?

I am shopping, myself, without much thought about technical range, but more about ergonomics, ease of use.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Actually I have a suggestion. In 1963 Popular Photography had article about the Jiffy Night Calculator. I made one and went on a night photography spree taking photographs of the buildings and monument of Washington DC. Then stores, ... Every exposure was bang on with slide film. Enjoy.

http://f-sunny.com/night-exposures-in-a-jiffy/
http://www.cppdh.org/download/jiffy-calculator-for-night-light-exposures.pdf
https://www.flickr.com/photos/46322625@N05/30151457250

 

[Ariston]

Actually I have a suggestion. In 1963 Popular Photography had article about the Jiffy Night Calculator. I made one and went on a night photography spree taking photographs of the buildings and monument of Washington DC. Then stores, ... Every exposure was bang on with slide film. Enjoy.

http://f-sunny.com/night-exposures-in-a-jiffy/
http://www.cppdh.org/download/jiffy-calculator-for-night-light-exposures.pdf
https://www.flickr.com/photos/46322625@N05/30151457250

That is cool, Sirius. Thank you for that!

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

Actually, the point I was trying to make is that a new light meter is not going to solve your exposure problem. No light meter is going to be able account for reciprocity failure, therefore only testing different exposures can tell you what you need to know.

As a starting point, you can use any light meter and a little math. Take a reading at ISO 25 and decide which aperture you want to use. Look at the shutter speed (SS) for that aperture. Now double that shutter speed and that would be the correct SS for ISO 12.5; double it again for ISO 6.25, and double it again for ISO 3. But as I said, the meter reading can't account for reciprocity failure, so the actual shutter speed you need is likely to be longer than that. Only your testing will determine how much longer.

Film data sheet furnished by the manufacturer can be found on-line. They indicate reciprocity adjustments.

 

[Alan Edward Klein]

That is cool, Sirius. Thank you for that!

I assembled the calculator mentioned in the second link. Pretty cool.

 

[Laci Toth]

Just curious, are you leaning towards the Gossen or the Sekonic, and why?

I am shopping, myself, without much thought about technical range, but more about ergonomics, ease of use.

I bought then a Gossen Profisix and it’s awesome. Does anything.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I bought then a Gossen Profisix and it’s awesome. Does anything.

But does it remove plaque from your teeth?

 

[Laci Toth]

But does it remove plaque from your teeth?

Certainly and there’s not even an extra charge.