Question about push development with Tetenal C41 Kit

[sapphireflyer]

Hello APUG community,

This is my first post because this time my problem wasn't solved with google. I shoot film for two and a half years now and its one of the best things I've done in my life so far! I never used a lab for getting my film developed and started out with B&W and I am doing colour (only C41 so far) for a year now BUT I never tried to push colour film. I developed over 40 colour films, which is a lot for me, in the last year but only noticed yesterday that I never pushed a roll of C41 film. I wanted to add this so people are aware that I dont have much knowledge about film even though I learned a lot in the last two years.

Now to my problem. I was tired and without thinking I blindly followed the kits recommendation on pushing film which recommends adding 30 seconds for a +1 push. I shot a cheap roll of Fuji Superia 400 at 800 and the negatives where just not how I wanted them to be. Not even close to be honest.
I found a lot of information on pushing C41 but not with my tetenal kit. Is there a general rule on how much I should extend the developing time? I just think that thirty seconds seem a little short. Help would be appreciated. Also sorry for my bad english!

sapphireflyer

 

[rpavich]

Hello APUG community,

This is my first post because this time my problem wasn't solved with google. I shoot film for two and a half years now and its one of the best things I've done in my life so far! I never used a lab for getting my film developed and started out with B&W and I am doing colour (only C41 so far) for a year now BUT I never tried to push colour film. I developed over 40 colour films, which is a lot for me, in the last year but only noticed yesterday that I never pushed a roll of C41 film. I wanted to add this so people are aware that I dont have much knowledge about film even though I learned a lot in the last two years.

Now to my problem. I was tired and without thinking I blindly followed the kits recommendation on pushing film which recommends adding 30 seconds for a +1 push. I shot a cheap roll of Fuji Superia 400 at 800 and the negatives where just not how I wanted them to be. Not even close to be honest.
I found a lot of information on pushing C41 but not with my tetenal kit. Is there a general rule on how much I should extend the developing time? I just think that thirty seconds seem a little short. Help would be appreciated. Also sorry for my bad english!

sapphireflyer

I my opinion...pushing really isn't possible with C-41. It "sort of" is but it's different than the result you'd get with black and white.
I'd rather shoot at 400 and do my best than try and push C-41.

 

[MattKing]

If by "push" development you mean an increase in contrast, at the expense of colour fidelity, and without any meaningful increase in shadow detail, certainly it is possible.
It is essentially the result obtained when "push" processing black and white negative film, with the additional benefit of colour crossover!
It has value - that increase in contrast can help in a number of marginal lighting conditions - but it is really important to understand exactly what that value is, and where to apply it.

 

[trendland]

Yes of cause there is one - i would say:

Try and error - one of the best methods
of human-being ever made.

With the results of this method you will
become your personal expert for Tetenal C41 Kits within a couple of weeks.

Make shure that you dont forget the
results of your work, write them on a Papier.

When you have a big map with lists
from developing results, with times
and temperatures,agitation ritm etc.
you are on the right side for further
problems.

It seems to me that you have made no
mistakes with your push1 development.

Perhaps you will do the next Film
in the way you have descripe it
in your post.


The little rest could be lay on your
ISO 1600 Films.

Think aboud that Fuji wanted them
for ISO 1600 in real they would miss
a less.
ISO 1200 i guess.....

with regards to you

 

[Rudeofus]

I shot a cheap roll of Fuji Superia 400 at 800 and the negatives where just not how I wanted them to be. Not even close to be honest.

Kodak even recommends normal processing for films which are one or two stops underexposed. Superia 400 should have enough latitude to properly handle exposure at EI 800. If your results are "Not even close to be honest", then something else was off.

 

[trendland]

......oh sorry - i misunderstood.

You have a Fuji Superia 400 (not 1600)
That is by the time an really excellent film
and it has the full ISO 400 Fuji recommended.

Underexposures with color films are
in the nearly same range of quality like
bw films.

For me there is no difference at all.

But the quality increases absolutely
after 2 steps.

Do never try push3 - safe your film !

That means for you : ISO 800 with your
Superior ,
for experimental use ISO 1600

Better quality is posible with superior
1600.

Much better quality is possible by using
Kodak Portra 400 (for ISO1600 )
Kodak Portra 800 has only the same
condition on ISO 1600

with regards to you

 

[sapphireflyer]

If by "push" development you mean an increase in contrast, at the expense of colour fidelity, and without any meaningful increase in shadow detail, certainly it is possible.

Yes, thats what I mean.

Kodak even recommends normal processing for films which are one or two stops underexposed. Superia 400 should have enough latitude to properly handle exposure at EI 800. If your results are "Not even close to be honest", then something else was off.

I had a roll of Superia 400 in my other camera and didnt push it. I was at F1.8 with shutter speeds as slow as 1/15. I know some people can handhold that stuff but I cant. Maybe in a daylight situation I wouldnt mind underexposure but not if my negatives are already so thin its literally 95% black in the final image.

As I said. I would understand the underexposure in a daylight situation but why would I shoot ISO 800 or 1600 at a sunny day when I have 100, 200 and 400 ISO films. I am shooting in low light and I only choose to push instead of buying 1600 ISO film is because friends are doing it and its a lot cheaper. They are getting their film developed by a lab tough.

 

[MattKing]

Yes, thats what I mean.

I had a roll of Superia 400 in my other camera and didnt push it. I was at F1.8 with shutter speeds as slow as 1/15. I know some people can handhold that stuff but I cant. Maybe in a daylight situation I wouldnt mind underexposure but not if my negatives are already so thin its literally 95% black in the final image.

As I said. I would understand the underexposure in a daylight situation but why would I shoot ISO 800 or 1600 at a sunny day when I have 100, 200 and 400 ISO films. I am shooting in low light and I only choose to push instead of buying 1600 ISO film is because friends are doing it and its a lot cheaper. They are getting their film developed by a lab tough.

The point of my post was that pushing does nothing to improve under-exposure. The film will still be under-exposed. The increase in contrast will just leave you with marginally more acceptable mid-tones and highlights.
In comparison, the 1600 ISO film will not be under-exposed.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Rather than pushing, just use the film latitude and make any corrections when printing. Pushing C-41 is not a great idea.

 

[sapphireflyer]

Rather than pushing, just use the film latitude and make any corrections when printing. Pushing C-41 is not a great idea.

Hmm ok..