Question About Motor Drives for the Nikon F2A

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FilmOnly

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I have been thinking of adding an F2A to my palette of photographic tools. I have been hesitant about doing so because the available drives for this camera are so bulky. Hence, I ask:

Must the drives (MD-1, -2, and -3) be used with the battery pack?
Did Nikon ever offer a more streamlined drive for this camera?

I do not need blazing speed, and, in fact, I mostly like having the extra grip area--but not too much (in terms of bulk and heft). I would want just a simple drive that runs on AA batteries.

Thanks,
Glen
 

bdial

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epatsellis

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You have to use a battery pack of some kind, back when I shot with an F2, I made one out of a small 12V gel cell, kept it clipped on my belt and worked like a charm.

Nikon didn't offer any other drives for the F2, have you ever picked up an F2? with the motor attached, while heavy, they balance nicely, almost as nice as the F3/MD4 combo (which, I feel were designed as a pair, they just fit the hand so well)

erie
 
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You have to use a battery pack of some kind, back when I shot with an F2, I made one out of a small 12V gel cell, kept it clipped on my belt and worked like a charm.

Nikon didn't offer any other drives for the F2, have you ever picked up an F2? with the motor attached, while heavy, they balance nicely, almost as nice as the F3/MD4 combo (which, I feel were designed as a pair, they just fit the hand so well)

erie

If 12 volts is the issue, an adapter cord could be made to power the drive by a Quantum 2. They may be able to make one up if they ever had one in stock.

Do any of the Nikon F2 motordrives have a motorized rewind feature ? The F3's MD4 does.
 
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While all drives for the F2 need the battery pack that mounts under the drive. The MD-3 was the last drive developed for the F2 and was meant to be lighter and simpler. The MD-3 and MD-2 are about the same size, but the MD-3 lacks the motorized rewind.
 
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Vilk

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I do not need blazing speed, and, in fact, I mostly like having the extra grip area--but not too much (in terms of bulk and heft). I would want just a simple drive that runs on AA batteries.

Some comments from a happy MD-3 user:

Get it! Now! :D

If possible, verify the drive's operation before buying. They're old now and many will have cracked nylon gears (noise and vibration if the crack is bad) or oxidized/dirty contacts (misfiring randomly). Both of these problems actually happen in storage, not in use, so the external appearance does not matter much.

Use lithium AAs. My MD-3 runs faster than factory spec on Energizer e2 cells (some people measured higher unloaded voltage from these) and feels lighter than an MD-12 with alkaline AAs. The combo will be on the bulky side, yes, but it will be surprisingly light and pleasantly grippable.

Last but not least, she's a looker with that drive! :cool:

Have fun and report how you like it!
 
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John_Nikon_F

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Sover Wong can supply brass gears to replace the broken nylon gears on late MD-2's and the MD-3's. His website is http://soverf2repair.webs.com - he also repairs F2's. I eventually plan to send my F2A to him to be "Soverized".

-J
 

nicefor88

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If you look closely at the evolution of the F line, you will see that motor drives get smaller with the next generation. But in terms of power supply, using AA batteries will always make most of the weight. I gave up my F5 mainly for that reason.
I think the MD 1,2,3 look awful, too big, too bulky. A member suggested you get a F3 with dedicated drive instead. A good idea to me. But if you really want to get a F2...
 
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