Question about Japan Hobby Tool Helicoid Grease

Oblidor

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Hi

As I see it mentioned a lot, I ordered Japan Hobby Tool Helicoid Grease #10. I'm still waiting for it to travel around half the world to me and as I'm halted in my CLA project, I started looking at what constitutes a good grease for cameras/lenses. I have seen recommendations for Lithium Grease, but from the testing of one it had Corrosion grade 1 on Copper. The camera I am CLA'ing already has brass/copper with corrosion. So I thought to check on the spec of the Japan Hobby Tool Grease:


I thought this grease should be preventing oil bleeding as much as possible? Should I have gotten something else, and if so what?

Thanks in advance.
 

Kino

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I use the Japan Tool #10 and it works fine. It is a light grease, so be aware; if you are working on a heavy helicoid, you may need heavier grease.

Just use it very, very sparingly! It should remain in place as long as you don't over apply and carefully clean up any and all grease that escapes the helicoid after exercising it several times.

If the resistance is not enough, go to a higher viscosity grease.

Yes it's not cheap, but a jar will pretty much be a lifetime supply, so having at least two grades on hand is a good investment.
 
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Oblidor

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I don't find it expensive (at least compared to general grease in my country), but I worry as the focusing mechanism is not far from the shutter. Do you apply it only to the first threads and then work it in but working it back and forth several times?
 

Kino

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If I can, I disassemble the lens helicoids entirely, clean the old grease off with acetone or paint thinner and brush a thin layer over the entire surface of the innermost helicoid. Then reassemble and work them back and forth to push any excess out and clean up the ends with acetone before reassembling the lens.

If you are leaving the helicoid in place, try working it a bit at a time, careful to not let it spill out, but this takes time and unless a lot of the thread is exposed, may not make it to all surfaces.

In any event, you are mixing new grease with old, dirt laden grease and making a nice grinding compound to wear out the helicoid.

Whatever you do, don't chase the grease with any solvents with the lens in place to promote movement, or you will have to totally disassemble the lens and clean it all out.
 
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Oblidor

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Thanks. Yes, everything is disassembled. Acetone works better than lighter fluid?
 

Kino

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Oblidor said:
Thanks. Yes, everything is disassembled. Acetone works better than lighter fluid?
Click to expand...

Depends on the original grease and how petrified it has become. You can only try and see...
 

blee1996

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I have been using this one for helicoid, after cleaning. So far, the consistency is good.

Helimax-XP Camera Telescope Optical Instrument Focusing Helicoid Grease w/PTFE 1oz 28g
 

4season

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Nicholas Lindan said:
The best I have found is "Corning High Vacuum Grease" - it does not separate.
Click to expand...

What do you use as a solvent when you want to remove it? I recall it being almost impervious to common organic solvents.
 

Nicholas Lindan

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4season said:
What do you use as a solvent when you want to remove it? I recall it being almost impervious to common organic solvents.
Click to expand...

One of my goals in using it is not having to remove it. It's just there.

But, if I must, usually because I really over did it, I remove most of it with a Kimwipe and then remove the thin film that is left with lighter fluid or mineral spirits. I imagine most organic solvents will work, flux remover works IIRC.

I suppose there is always Piranha solution.
 
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Oblidor

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Speaking of the sun (as we say), a package from Japan Hobby Tool came yesterday (couple of weeks before the estimated time) so now CLA project is back up and running and I will see how the grease works
 

Kilbi

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4season said:
What do you use as a solvent when you want to remove it? I recall it being almost impervious to common organic solvents.
Click to expand...

Sorry, this reply comes quite late, but the best solvent for removing vacuum grease such as the stuff used in chemical laboratories on glassware is ethyl acetate. Nothing else comes close.
 
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