Question about glowing power outlets!

Hello All,

I'm just wrapping up the final details in my darkroom build. My space is a room within my garage. Code requires CFCI outlets in the garage, which I have used. I placed a piece of light proof tape over the small led light on the outlets, but there is still a slight glow through the body of the outlet itself. My first thought was to paint them to block the light, but after consulting the google, this seems unsafe. My next thought was to cover the faces with electrical tape and cut the prong holes out with an exacto knife (power off of course!). My final thought is wondering if this light is even enough to make a difference. Anyone have any thoughts on these ideas, or have a better solution?

Thank you!

Chris

They make GFCI outlets without lights. Or at least they used to. That's what I use in my darkroom. You might could find one if you looked long enough. I think I remember reading that some only have the light come on if there's a fault. They also make separate GFCI units that allow you to apply that safety feature to all of the outlets on that circuit. I had that in a darkroom once, and I had to tape over it, which was easy to do because it was just a push button switch, and didn't require holes for the outlet.

Or you might get away with just using it as is. I don't know if it's enough light to make a difference or not. That kind of depends on the color (green or red), it's location (does the light actually make it over to where you work?), and what you're doing in there (B&W paper? Color film? Alt. process?). Since I often process sheet film in trays, I opt not to take chances.

The GFCI units that I've used lets one daisy-chain a series of outlets that all have the protection of the GFCI outlet between them and the power source. Check the instructions for the GFCI outlet you have to make sure. It should be easy to block the light output of that one GFCI unit. Remember, you can't have too many outlets in a darkroom. Bit by bit additional devices need outlets. My last darkroom had about 20 lights, safelights, audio systems, clocks, enlargers, and other stuff plugged in.

If you do not need the outlets while working in the dark, try to find a small, opaque plastic box without a lid that will cover the outlet and faceplate. Cardboard will work too. Use some gaffer's tape to hinge the cover over the outlet. If you do nee the outlets, cut slots in the cover so light won't escape with the cord coming through.

I've got two GFCI outlets with little green LEDs on them in my darkroom. I deal with them as follows.

If I don't need them, I turn them off using the "Test" button. That turns off the light. I leave them off for months at a time sometimes.

When I do need one or the other, I cover the LED with a bit of black gaffer's tape. I've had no problems tray-developing sheet film with the outlet just a couple of feet from the developer tray. For your "glowing" outlets: I'd try developing a test sheet or two first with the LED covered (that is, if you can't just turn the outlet off). It may be a non-issue. Keep in mind that green is the color film is least sensitive to (safelights for developing by inspection are green). If there is some fogging, then you may be able to build a blocking baffle out of cardboard or whatever that shields your developing tray from the direct light from the outlet. That's what I've done with my timer.

As an aside: my stereo, which is hung on the wall opposite my sink, has annoying blue display lighting when on, which I think would certainly fog film. For printing, I just cover the display with a square of lightproof plastic cut from the plastic envelope photo paper comes in (I've got lots of that hanging around...). When developing film, I hinge an entire 11x14 envelope to the top of the stereo with some blue tape. You might be able to rig something like that for temporary use when developing film. I can't imagine that it would affect prints unless the outlet was very, very close to the paper at some point in the process.

Best,

Doremus

Simple...install one GFI outlet on the outer wall of the darkroom and daisy chain the ones inside off of it.

Some great suggestions here! Thanks for taking the time to reply. I’ve got enough feedback to solve my problem now.

Chris

I have something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Protector-PO...refix=6+gang+adap,aps,174&sr=8-29-spons&psc=1

Plugged into my CGFI. It covers the residual glow quite well.

J.

Pieter12 said:

Use some gaffer's tape to hinge the cover over the outlet.

Click to expand...

Gaff (as we call it in the entertainment industry) and/or cardboard is a great way of covering unwanted lights up both on stages and, well, my dark room anyway. Mine is in the utility room, so there is a washer and dryer, both with fairly bright orange displays and red buttons shielded with gaff covers. And the stereo. Also all around the door surround. Oh, and the corners of the window where the blackout Velcro hasn't quite worked properly!

Le Mark is good stuff if you are UK/EU, Pro Gaff is great and cheaper in 'Murica. Just make sure you get the matt black stuff

I believe that you can use a GFI breaker for the circuit.

I put all the GFIs in the breaker box and used standard outlets. GFI breakers are higher quality and last longer. GFI receptacles are cash-cow for the manufacturers.

Deep red lighting gel is pretty handy for things like non-red digital clock and stereo displays, too. You can wrap it or tape it or cut it to fit the face and give it a mist of spray mount or a bit of double-stick tape. It's also handy for complicated dodging/burning; hold it on your burn card with a few extra seconds on the timer, get aligned, and then slide it out of the way with your thumb.

In case of doubt on the effect of such light, I would just desolder that LED.
You still can check the outlet by sound (likely) and by load.

Amador said:

Hello All,

I'm just wrapping up the final details in my darkroom build. My space is a room within my garage. Code requires CFCI outlets in the garage, which I have used. I placed a piece of light proof tape over the small led light on the outlets, but there is still a slight glow through the body of the outlet itself. My first thought was to paint them to block the light, but after consulting the google, this seems unsafe. My next thought was to cover the faces with electrical tape and cut the prong holes out with an exacto knife (power off of course!). My final thought is wondering if this light is even enough to make a difference. Anyone have any thoughts on these ideas, or have a better solution?

Thank you!

Chris

Click to expand...

too dim to cause harm.

Not sure what your region is, but If you want this done right go with GFI breaker not so equipped outlets (and as others said, with chained "standard" outlets, but outlets used should be splash proof type, no matter how far you think they will be located from the wet area ). Better yet, put in two circuits, each with GFI breaker and each on separate phases. Each chain will have less load, and if one goes out, second may still provide needed power. This is especially good, if higher tech electronic gear is employed in the darkroom and could use cleaner lead.

AgX said:

In case of doubt on the effect of such light, I would just desolder that LED.
You still can check the outlet by sound (likely) and by load.

Click to expand...

That's what I'd do if I had to do it over again. But I understand a lot of people don't like to solder stuff or messing with high voltage electronic devices or overriding safety features (even if it is just a useless indicator light), so I rarely suggest stuff like that anymore. In fact, if I couldn't easily get to the LED, I'd likely just puncture it with a soldering iron (I have a low power one I use solely for melting plastics).

And in case anyone decides to go this route, here's the obligatory "disconnect the power at the breaker before attempting anything like this and if you don't know what you're doing around electronics, find someone who does" spiel.

Witold said:

Not sure what your region is, but If you want this done right go with GFI breaker not so equipped outlets (and as others said, with chained "standard" outlets, but outlets used should be splash proof type, no matter how far you think they will be located from the wet area ). Better yet, put in two circuits, each with GFI breaker and each on separate phases. Each chain will have less load, and if one goes out, second may still provide needed power. This is especially good, if higher tech electronic gear is employed in the darkroom and could use cleaner lead.

Click to expand...

It is also good practice to ensure that your safe light and main light are isolated from circuits that other equipment could trip - If you do get a splash that shorts something out, which may or may not give you the sparky tingles, then usually that's a sign that something went rather wrong, and you ideally don't want to be left in the dark to deal with it.

And if you ask me, going so far as to make independent redundant lighting circuits isn't an unreasonable path if your budget allows. (However my day-job career has heavily focused on designing for worst case scenarios... I assume I'm biased by this point.)

Luckless said:

It is also good practice to ensure that your safe light and main light are isolated from circuits that other equipment could trip - If you do get a splash that shorts something out, which may or may not give you the sparky tingles, then usually that's a sign that something went rather wrong, and you ideally don't want to be left in the dark to deal with it.

And if you ask me, going so far as to make independent redundant lighting circuits isn't an unreasonable path if your budget allows. (However my day-job career has heavily focused on designing for worst case scenarios... I assume I'm biased by this point.)

Click to expand...

When building a "darkroom", why not design for worst-case scenarios? It is probably cheaper to do so then than at other time. I only need "complete darkness" when I am loading film holders and when loading film into "daylight" developing tanks. It is good to know, however, that when using safelights while printing that the "safe" lights are providing the only light in the room..........Regards!

Luckless said:

It is also good practice to ensure that your safe light and main light are isolated from circuits that other equipment could trip - If you do get a splash that shorts something out, which may or may not give you the sparky tingles, then usually that's a sign that something went rather wrong, and you ideally don't want to be left in the dark to deal with it.

And if you ask me, going so far as to make independent redundant lighting circuits isn't an unreasonable path if your budget allows. (However my day-job career has heavily focused on designing for worst case scenarios... I assume I'm biased by this point.)

Click to expand...

Absolutely agree. In spite of what some might see as simple electrical in a darkroom (not an international data center) electrical system can be quite elaborate if one so wishes to both, have less money later to worry about, and to be as safe as trouble prediction would allow. Cost is mostly in extra labor and additional wires, all other extras are few and don't add much to final cost, but it is nice to have it laid out for good electrical separation (and later trouble shooting too).

Luckless said:

It is also good practice to ensure that your safe light and main light are isolated from circuits that other equipment could trip,...

Click to expand...

Good point. It follows the concept of emergency lighting. First time I read this being proposed.

(Though likely the darkrooms of most of us are too small to get lost, and moreover most of us would find their way in total darkness, by routine.)

AgX said:

Good point. It follows the concept of emergency lighting. First time I read this being proposed.

(Though likely the darkrooms of most of us are too small to get lost, and moreover most of us would find their way in total darkness, by routine.)

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Yeah, that's kind of what I was thinking. I spend a lot of time in my darkroom in total darkness, so if the power went out, I wouldn't really be at a disadvantage. I've learned to move around it through memory and echolocation, which won't help me find something small, but it'll tell me where the doors, walls, cabinets, tables, etc. are.

In addition to everything else that's been mentioned, you can buy GFI outlets that are black. That said, the white one in my darkroom has never caused me any problems, though it's separated from the area from where I usually handle film.

Black plastic flap cut from a photo paper bag. And a bit of tape.