Question about fixer, ADOFIX

[gheed]

I have recently gotten into developing my own film and I am truly enjoying the process! =)
I have only just started and I have been using ADOX's products. I have some questions about their fixer, ADOFIX. Am I able to keep it after fixing my film to be used again? If not, is there any fixer on the market which can be reused? Also, I have been using the ADONAL developer, which I know I cant save after developing, but is there a developer that can be reused?

Thank you!

Cheers
/Nicholai

 

[pentaxuser]

Yes you can use the same fixer more than once for film. Is there not a leaflet with ADOFIX that tells you how many films can be fixed. These kind of instructions usually quote a certain quantity of fixer as well. Often this is 1L

pentaxuser

 

[AgX]

Welcome to Apug

1L concentrate yields fixing capacity for 90 films type 135/36 .

1L working solution (from the powder) yields capacity for 10-15 films type 135/36 .

Keep in mind that the working solution stays good only a limited time (months).

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I have recently gotten into developing my own film and I am truly enjoying the process! =)
I have only just started and I have been using ADOX's products. I have some questions about their fixer, ADOFIX. Am I able to keep it after fixing my film to be used again? If not, is there any fixer on the market which can be reused? Also, I have been using the ADONAL developer, which I know I cant save after developing, but is there a developer that can be reused?

Thank you!

Cheers
/Nicholai

many B&W chemicals can be reused but that doesn't mean you should.For processing consistency,I recommend only using it one-shot.For fixing,investigate 2-barh fixing,For developing ,investigate replenishing.A film fixed in exhausted fixer will be ruined.Tetenal offers a kit to measure silver content in fixer but again 2-bath fixing is the better solution for your precious negatives.

 

[AgX]

The OP is a beginner, why complicating things?

I assume the majority of us use the fixer bath repeatedly.

 

[gheed]

I understand a bit more now. Thank you all for your information!
I was under the impression that the ADOFIX did not keep at all after one fixing. I will experiment with some less, important films.

Thank you all again. This is a very nice forum =)

 

[AgX]

You find that basic information at the Fotoimpex shop at the very products, just click at them.

 

[gheed]

You find that basic information at the Fotoimpex shop at the very products, just click at them.

Wow, what a good site! So much cheaper than Sweden to. Thanks a bunch! =)

 

[AgX]

Adox and Fotoimpex are sister companies under same management. Practically they are one.
Fotoimpex is the sales part, and Adox the manufacturing part. Very much simplified.

 

[Stephen Prunier]

You can do a fix test on a scrap of undeveloped film. Just place a drop of fixer on the shiny side of the film. Keep track of the time and wait for the spot to become clear. If it hasn't cleared after a couple minutes. Throw it out. I take the time, and double it. So, if it took 2 minutes to clear, I fix the film for 4-5 minutes. Once you have the basics down, I think you'll find it very rewarding.

Welcome aboard

 

[Sirius Glass]

Welcome to APUG

 

[gheed]

You can do a fix test on a scrap of undeveloped film. Just place a drop of fixer on the shiny side of the film. Keep track of the time and wait for the spot to become clear. If it hasn't cleared after a couple minutes. Throw it out. I take the time, and double it. So, if it took 2 minutes to clear, I fix the film for 4-5 minutes. Once you have the basics down, I think you'll find it very rewarding.

Welcome aboard

Thank you! That is very helpful!

 

[davedm]

Place the drop on non shiney side. That's where emulsion is.

 

[Doremus Scudder]

From the horse's mouth http://www.adox.de/Photo/adox-chemistry/stopbath-and-fixer/adofix/

Check out the Ilford pdf for their rapid fix as well: http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2006130218312091.pdf

Read it carefully and you'll have a good basic education in fixing. Keep in mind that there are print fixing standards for "general" work and for " optimum permanence.

Ilford's capacities and shelf-life recommendations should apply generally to the Adox product as well.

FWIW, I try to save up enough film to do a "batch" and use my fixer for just one session. As mentioned above, as you use fixer, the fixing times will grow longer until the capacity has been reached (at which time you discard the fixer). Us a clip test (described above) to determine both your minimum proper fixing time (I like 3x clearing time, but 2x clearing time plus 10% works for many) and fixer exhaustion (when the clearing time is 2x that of fresh fixer, the fixer is exhausted and needs to be discarded). Film can easily stand longer than minimum fixing times. Longer times often help clear the pink cast of some films.

Don't use the same batch of fixer for both film and prints; you can use the same product, just mix separate batches for film and prints.

Hope this helps,

Doremus

 

[Stephen Prunier]

Place the drop on non shiney side. That's where emulsion is.

Your making it too easy for him!

That's what I should have said. Use the dull/emulsion side.

 

[MattKing]

You can do a fix test on a scrap of undeveloped film. Just place a drop of fixer on the shiny side of the film. Keep track of the time and wait for the spot to become clear. If it hasn't cleared after a couple minutes. Throw it out. I take the time, and double it. So, if it took 2 minutes to clear, I fix the film for 4-5 minutes. Once you have the basics down, I think you'll find it very rewarding.

Welcome aboard

Here is a little more detail about this: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)

If you just use the single drop it can sometimes be tough to tell when the film has cleared.

You may want to read my first post in the "discussion" part for a way to incorporate a clip test into every developing session you do.