In the past, commercial photofinishers made both color and B&W enlargements optically for fairly low prices. I recall reading descriptions, ~20 years ago, about "advanced" scanning technology that was used to determine exposure, color balance (for color film), etc. No doubt this technology would seem primitive by today's standards, but it did enable photofinishers to make optical enlargements without a lot of guesswork. These certainly weren't custom hand-made prints, but they were good enough to satisfy the average consumer.
I don't know how many labs use similar techniques today, but my guess would be that it's pretty rare. As others have said, scanning and printing digitally is common. The digital printing can be done on conventional (RA-4 or even B&W) paper or using some other technology. If you want a particular type of print, ask the lab if they can provide it. If they can't even provide an answer, move on to another lab. You might also consider taking up enlarging yourself. In today's market, you can pick up a used enlarger and other necessary equipment (trays, safelight, etc.) quite inexpensively. You can even set this up on a portable cart in a bathroom if you have no other suitable space. This is overkill if you just want one or two prints a year, but if you want to get the most out of conventional B&W photography, doing your own prints provides you with the sort of control you can't get via a commercial lab.