Question about BW film developing (fuji acros 100)

faustotesta · Apr 25, 2011

Hello,
i've just had a strange experience.
Have developed a 120 Fuji acros (rodinal 1+50).
On one side file is ok. On the other one the picture is not very well visible.
I'm wondering whether this negative is printable or not and if anyone has ever had such result.
Any ideas ?
Thank you

Thomas Bertilsson · Apr 25, 2011

I can't understand what you mean.

Can you show a picture of the negative?

wblynch · Apr 25, 2011

Sounds like part of the film was not submerged in either the developer or the fix. Are you sure you used enough chemical volume?

faustotesta · Apr 26, 2011

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Sorry for the poor quality scanning. I'm sure i used enough volume. The problem is on the entire surface of the negative.
I'm wondering whether this is printable or not.
Thank you

MattKing · Apr 26, 2011

This looks like it hasn't been fully fixed. Either it wasn't fixed for long enough, wasn't agitated enough in the fixer, or the fixer has expired. I would refix in fresh fixer.

faustotesta · Apr 26, 2011

MattKing said:
This looks like it hasn't been fully fixed. Either it wasn't fixed for long enough, wasn't agitated enough in the fixer, or the fixer has expired. I would refix in fresh fixer.

I'll try to refix. i didn't know it was possible.
Many thanks

Thomas Bertilsson · Apr 26, 2011

I agree with Matt's assessment.

When you re-fix, make sure to mix fresh fixer. Your old fixer is probably exhausted.

- Thomas

TareqPhoto · Apr 29, 2011

So what happened now, did you re-fix it and it worked?!!!

faustotesta · May 1, 2011

Double fixing has worked.
Thanks everybody for the quick and effective response.
Ciao

bblhed · May 1, 2011

Wow, I guess that Kodak T-Max isn't the only film that comes out purple when it is under fixed.

Thomas Bertilsson · May 1, 2011

bblhed said:
Wow, I guess that Kodak T-Max isn't the only film that comes out purple when it is under fixed.

All 'modern' grain films, Kodak TMax 100, 400, and 3200; Ilford Delta 100, 400, and 3200; and Fuji Acros need extended time in the fixing bath.

Once in a while a roll of traditional grain film sneaks into my work flow, and I fix that for six minutes too. It's not long enough to hurt anything, and it helps me keep a consistent time for fixing film that works for everything.
Six minutes is for rapid fix (or 3+3 minutes if you do a two bath system); if you use a standard fixer that time is doubled to about 10-12 minutes.

Question about BW film developing (fuji acros 100)

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