Pyrocat HD vs. PMK Pyro

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JackRosa

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Awesome Idea Terry

I'm still on my first-ever batch of Pyrocat. Instead of mixing it in water, I mixed it in an antifreeze that is primarily glycol. It has been working over a year now!

Awesome idea, Terry - it would have never occurred to me to use anti-freeze as a source of glycol. THANKS for the tip.
 
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JackRosa

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Elaborate si vous plait


Patrick: (a) would you kindly elaborate as to how Pyrocat has worked better for you for the smaller formats? (b) Do you mean 35mm only or also 120?
 
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JackRosa

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PMK for LF work vs. D76


Thanks Rick.

Q: why PMK vs. D76 for LF work? 4x5? 8x10?

I have tried D76 (1+1) with 120 and love it. I tried PMK and Pyrocat (with 120) and truly do not see the benefit (unless the subject is very-high contrast).

For 8x10, my developer has been (for years) Rodinal (1+25). A few years ago, I ran a few tests to compare PMK with Rodinal and after a few prints side by side found that I was not getting anything superior from PMK vs Rodinal. My subjects were not contrast-extreme - important highlights fell on Zone VIII or VIII+

I am curious as to whether your experience Rodinal/PMK differs from mine and would appreciate you sharing it with me/us.
 

Rick A

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Simple, economy. A very little goes a very long way with LF, where you are mixing liters of chems versus 225ml for 35mm or 450ml for 120. I do use Pyro developers with smaller formats at times, but these days I shoot so very little 35mm and have a gallon of D-76 to use up. I shoot a lot of 120, but that has gone down since the disappearance of my Mamiya 6, and I don't like lugging Mamiya TLR's around on walks. I also have started making carbon transfer prints, and love the negatives from Pyro for that. I am using in camera negatives to print them, and it seems to give excellent contact prints. I can get dep shadow detail and stunning highlights without them getting blown out. This is a scan of a print, it loses detail in the scan. The dust is in my scanner.



4x5 Arista EDU Ultra 100 /PMK pyro
 
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