Part A contains the developing agents. Part B is simply a solution of potassium carbonate, which provides the correct pH to enable development. See: http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/html/mixing.html
Also I agree you should initially stick to the dilution/times recommended by Sandy: http://www.pyrocat-hd.com/html/times.html
As an example guideline: I develop Acros (at EI 80) in 1:1:100 at 21.5 C (70F) in Paterson tanks using minimal agitation (but not stand). The results are stellar.
Sorry I have no detailed experience with stand developing. Just wondering why you aren't just using standard dilution and times. Pyrocat-HD used in this way is really very good.
Pyrocat HD Part B influences developer speed and color/base fog. 1:1 produces more stain than 3:2 ratio but also requires more time. I use 3:2:500 and have barely any stain. Be careful going more dilute than 1A/B to 250 parts water, and less than 2A:1B since you will not have enough developer to do the job. My normal is 3A 2B 500W for minimal base stain. 3:3:500 shortens time or increases contrast, but has more base fog.
Aha! That corresponds to my tests. Ok, I'll be careful. What about the opposite limits? What if I go with higher concentration? I've head people did two bath: first soak in 10A 300W and then activate with part B. I have an impression that grain stays approximately the same (comparing to other developers)?
More developer = shorter times or more contrast. Two bath is a different animal. I think you need a really contrasty scene to resort to two bath, and even then you may get uneven results. ...
...but temperature fluctuation is another factor to be aware of.
Prolonged development as in a stand regime will always result in higher general stain due to oxidization of the developer. This may however not be an issue as you can generally print through it very easily.
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