Pyrocat HD questions

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Willie Jan

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Hi,
i have some questions about the pyrocat developer.

when mixing do i have to use alcohol to solve the phenidone?
I read it at the unblinking eye site, but on other sites i did not see it.

Second,
is it possible to use a fixer like amaloco X89 or does this create problems. I do not have the sodium thiosulfate at this time and would like to do some tests.

i did a test a came at:
Fuji across 100, rated at 100.
Pyrocat HD 1:1:100
18 minutes at 20 degrees celcius
agitate first minute, and after that once each 45 seconds.

What i want to to do to check this is:
------------------------------------
first find out the time that my enlarger creates black at a clear part of the neg at #2.
Put the stouffer card onto the photo paper.
develop, dry the photo and see if it has the whole range of grays.
If so, put in the neg with the gray card and see if this photo creates the same color as the gray card has.
 

juan

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You do not have to use alcohol, but it takes a long time and lots of stirring to dissolve phenidone in water. The alcohol helps but is not necessary. I'm not familiar with your fixer.
juan
 

glbeas

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If you need an alkaline fix so the stain is not neutralized and all you have is an acid fix, dump some sodium carbonate by the teaspoon into the fix until the fizzing stops and use that. Works for me.
 

glbeas

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One thing I've noticed between the acid and alkali fix, acid fix you can open the lid before the film is completely cleared with no harm as the developer is neutralized by the acid. Alkali on the other hand the developer will keep working until the film is cleared, so you can still get fogged film opening the tank with fixer in it in the first minute or two.
 

Gerald Koch

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For all the staining developers you do not need to use an alkaline fixer. One that is slightly acid or near neutral will work just as well and is far less stinky. May I suggest Riuji's neutral fixer

Water .............................................. 600 ml
Ammonium thiosulfate, 60% .................. 200 ml
Sodium sulfite (anhy) ........................... 15 g
Sodium metabisulfite ............................ 5 g
Water to make .................................... 1.0 l
 

glbeas

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is it the same with acid & alkali fix to get the proper time, use a piece of film fix it and watch until it is cleared, and then double the time?

Yes, it all works the same. Dump the fix if the time is more than double the fresh times.
 
OP
OP
Willie Jan

Willie Jan

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For all the staining developers you do not need to use an alkaline fixer. One that is slightly acid or near neutral will work just as well and is far less stinky.

I use the amaloco X89 a lot. It is a fast oder free fix here in the netherlands.
I did a test last night between the natrium and the x89, and must say that i can not determine any differences between these two. Tonight i will see at a friend (microscope) if there is some change on detail level... Otherwise i will still use the x89 which is said to be gently to the negative.

Thanks.
 

vet173

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is it the same with acid & alkali fix to get the proper time, use a piece of film fix it and watch until it is cleared, and then double the time?
When using TF-4 it will clear in 15 seconds when fresh, still, fix it for 3 min as recommended to me by Bill Troop.
 

vet173

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I switched over to pyrocat-P just to get away from the phenodone. Use the same as-hd
 

gainer

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Search for Pyrocat PC recipe. Mix it in propylene glycol. Use it as Pyrocat HD. It lasts a long time in stock solution. It uses p-aminophenol, ascorbic acid, catechol
 
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