PL25 is very nice for skin tones with PMK pyro. Not sure what you have found with the grain size, as Efke 25 has very tight grain in almost any developer I can think of.
One drawback with PMK is the lack of ability to do minimal agitation, as Alex has said. PMK will give uneven staining when the agitation cycle frequency is reduced too much. Also, shadow values tend to be pretty muddy with PMK. Pyrocat is much better in many respects, but grain isn't as smooth because the general stain tends to block apparent grain. tim
P.P.S. Minimal agitation is defined as the first minute of gentle agitation, followed by 10 seconds every three minutes, until full development is realized for a given SBR. This is done (by me) using a diluted amount of pyrocat (1:1:150).
I'm curious to know how to get coarse grain out of FP4+. I use mostly 35 mm and can't find the grain in an 8x10, and I have very good enlarging lenses. Let me in on your secret.
Some who have used PMK or other pyro soups are not happy with the color of Pyrocat MC. Sandy uses it with good success in printing processes that need UV density. I have used the same recipe as Pyrocat MC, but substituting pyrogallol weight for weight for the catechol, and I use semistand development with no sign of unevenness. I use it 1:1:100 with the same carbonate B as for Pyrocat.
I think you will like the Pyrocat MC, though. I can't even get grain out of 35 mm HP5+.
Very interesting the variation Pat Gainer suggests.
I made the same with a perverted Pyrocat with Hydroquinone instead of Pyrocatechin with orange stain....
Is the negative obteined with this formula similar to PMK or the color of stain is different?
Developing times are similar to PMK or Pyrocat MC?
How we could name this new creation? Pyro-Pyro
Yuck! I think I'll stick with flipping coins.You spit a blob in your palm, say the mgic words "Spitter,spitter spider, I'll give you a drinkk of cider if you tell me where my (whatever you're looking for) is." Then with two fingers of the other hand you smak the ball of spit and follow the biggest blob.
Hi Pat
Thanks for the feedback. I basically take the negative and look at it with a 10x loupe. There you can really see the grain. Also, I scan the negs with a Howtek 4500 drum scanner and I zoom to see the grain to match the grain to the micron.
Best Regards,
Ross[/QUOTE
Sounds like you are looking at the equivalent of a 40"x50" enlargement (10x view of a 4x5 negative) with almost zero viewing distance. Yes at that level you will see the grain structure but is that realistic for print making. I make 16x20, 20x24 and larger prints from FP4+ and even when viewed from a few feet do not look at all grainy and are very sharp. Really do not understand your intention here - would it not be best to look at the finished prints from the appropriate viewing distance?
I went down the road testing different films and developers and found there was no magic combination. Most of the time I use FP4+ in ID11 (1+1) or Pyrocat HD 10+10+1000 and love life and my sharp prints.
Mike
P.P.S. Minimal agitation is defined as the first minute of gentle agitation, followed by 10 seconds every three minutes, until full development is realized for a given SBR. This is done (by me) using a diluted amount of pyrocat (1:1:150).
I think that you have set up a requirement that no film/developer combination could pass. If you are using 4x5 film then grain is immaterial as it will not appear in any reasonable size enlargement viewed at its proper viewing distance. You should be inspecting prints of the magnification you wish to use. With LF negatives you should be more concerned with gradation.I basically take the negative and look at it with a 10x loupe. There you can really see the grain. Also, I scan the negs with a Howtek 4500 drum scanner and I zoom to see the grain to match the grain to the micron.
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