I'm not aware of a factor... I do however sometimes use 2+2+100 for HP5, and couple other films.
Yeah, I've used 2:2:100 for HP5 for pt/pd printing. But, what I'd like to do here is: let's say the MDC indicates a developing time of 18 mins for Pyrocat-HD at 1:1:100; any stronger dilution will require less time, right? I'm also using minimal agitation, but I'm pretty sure I have that figured out. I really don't want to waste 8x10 film testing, but it may be the only way to derive the answer. Anyway, just thought I'd ask to see if anyone might lead me to a good starting point.
Quite frankly, I've done all my 8x10 testing with 4x5 film, and haven't bothered to tweak for 8x10.
Alan, I processed my 10x8 films for 9 mins at 20ºC at 2 + 2 ro 100 when using dish development, that's compared to 15 mins at 20ºC 1 + 1 to 100 for 5x4 and roll films using inversion agitation ina Jobo or Paterson tamk/
Ian
Thanks, Ian. Since I plan on using minimal agitation, I'm looking for a time longer than 9 mins but the MDC shows 18 mins at 1:1:100 for Acros 100 (original stock.) Using minimal agitation (every 2 - 3 mins), I'm probably looking at a development time of 24 - 25 mins. I'm using tanks & hangers and that's a long time to stand in the dark.Do you know what the effect is of going to a 1:2:100 dilution? Since B is the accelerator, I'm thinking this dilution would necessitate a shorter development time, but, perhaps, not as short as 2:2:100?
Yes doubling the Carbonate will up the pH slightly and cut the development time but not that significantly compared to increasing both, maybe 20-25% less.
Ian
I believe that doubling B also increases the stain (at least according to my reading of the Sandy King article on P-HD) which would increase the UV blocking properties and increase the effective exposure scale for alt processes.
You don't want excessive stain with HP5. More stain in the shadows and film base will block UV, resulting in very weak blacks.
I use IT-8 an Ilford Toner, essentially it's a Dichromate.Bromide bleach like a Chrome Intensifier followed after a wash by a simple Pyrocatechin re-developer which oxidises very quickly. this gives wonderful olive black tone. Unlike other toners there's a slight intensification.
You might ask what has this to do with Pyrocat HD. In recent years as I always have Pyrocat HD on the shelf I've used it as the re-developer and it works just as well and has a better tray life. To keep overall staining of the background & borders to a minimum you need fresh developer and prolonged immersion in oxidised developer will greatly increase the background stain.
One advantage of using Pyrocat HD at 2 + 2 to 100 or more concentrated is with faster development the film or paper isn't sat as long in oxidising developer causing base staining.
Ian
One advantage of using Pyrocat HD at 2 + 2 to 100 or more concentrated is with faster development the film or paper isn't sat as long in oxidising developer causing base staining.
The Metol version takes a bit longer for paper but is same for film.
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