Pyro which formula is best for 35mm and which is best for 120?

[vedmak]

I have been using PMK, for quite a while, it does a good job but with the so many new formulas I wanted to try something new, anyone care to share their experience and images?

 

[mikebarger]

I like 510 Pyro with Tri-X 400 in 120mm. Has worked fine for me.

 

[Ed Bray]

I have used either Pyrocat HD or Caffenol CL for almost all my films (35mm, 120, 4x5 and 5x7) in the last couple of years with just a brief foray with D74 and HC110 during this time. I have just finished my previous batch of Pyrocat HD (in water) and really liked the use of it as a 2 bath developer using a dilution ration of 1:10 for both parts A & B for 6 minutes each at a temperature of 24 degrees C. To part A I add a few drops of wetting agent to prevent streaking when the part B of the developer is added.

After a bit of discourse with Sandy King, I have made my latest batch of Pyrocat as the HDC variant and used Glycol as the base for the first time. I realise that it has amazing keeping qualities, but I don't expect it to last as long as previously as using it as a 2 bath uses 10 times the amount of concentrated developer as using it as a single bath, but, I feel the results I have obtained using it as a 2 bath developer across all formats make using it in this way is well worth the additional costs.

 

[Ian Grant]

Pyrocat HD is great for all formats.

Ian

 

[tony lockerbie]

Second what Ian says...maybe PHD is better on small format than PMK. I still use PMK for 5x4 for the times that I want to hold the high values.

 

[Regular Rod]

I have been using PMK, for quite a while, it does a good job but with the so many new formulas I wanted to try something new, anyone care to share their experience and images?

Are you happy to mix your own from scratch, no "kit" involved?

If you are then there are two very good developers that you might like to consider.

510-PYRO

and

OBSIDIAN AQUA

I think slightly more tones can be produced with 510-PYRO than OBSIDIAN AQUA but the latter is able to render finer grain and deliver a sharper effect. NB these are personal opinions based on my own work using them and how I feel about the results.

Both developers are compensating developers.

Both developers' stock solutions seem to last indefinitely.

http://www.digitaltruth.com/data/article-stainingdev.php

http://hypercatacutancedeveloper.blogspot.co.uk/2012/07/obsidian-aqua.html


RR

 

[pgomena]

My experience with PMK and 35mm was that Tri-X appeared very grainy, but that the newer tabular or other "modern" films looked really good. I now use Pyrocat-HD for just about everything.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I've spent my fair share of time fiddling with various pyro formulas, and even cooking up a couple new tweaks of my own. But in the long run,
for either tray dev or manual inversion drums, I haven't discovered any significant reason to switch from PMK as my standard developer for all
formats. And I've used a lot of different films. But my guess is, that if you do want to try something else which is deservedly popular, I'd give
Pyrocat-HD a twirl, just as others have suggested.

 

[Peter Schrager]

actually pyro-mc cuz' it's lasts indefinately...what's not to like?
best, peter

 

[destroya]

I have really liked the results I've had with Pyro HD. it with acros is almost a magical combo

 

[AlanCole]

Rod - those beautiful trees - did you scan negatives and work them a bit differently to warm the top one? I thought they were in the Bayou, but see that you live near a different body of water. What's the data on the wider, brighter Obsidian image; neg size, scanner, whether (I don't see how) the image is a scan of a print, etc. I've been dallying about ordering chemistry for OA from Artcraft, but you've pushed me off the fence.


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[Regular Rod]

Rod - those beautiful trees - did you scan negatives and work them a bit differently to warm the top one? I thought they were in the Bayou, but see that you live near a different body of water. What's the data on the wider, brighter Obsidian image; neg size, scanner, whether (I don't see how) the image is a scan of a print, etc. I've been dallying about ordering chemistry for OA from Artcraft, but you've pushed me off the fence.


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They're both on Fomapan 100 8x10. I tinted them both with PS to try and mimic what I used to get in the top example with AGFA Portriga untoned back in the 80's and in the bottom example what I used to get with AGFA Record Rapid toned in Eastman Kodak Selenium also in the 80's. I used to use Amidol exclusively for prints, mixing fresh from the raw chemicals with various spoons as measures. I lost my darkroom in a downsizing house move. One day I will have another but expect just to make contact prints...

Until then I am stuck with scanning on an Epson V700 using the film area guide on the platen glass.

RR

 

[John H]

I've been using 510 Pyro with tmy-400, Delta 400, and Ilford FP5+. There is a real lack of information for using these films and this developer in 35mm and 120. I would like to get a sense of success with each film. 1st what did you rate each film at. What dilution and temp did you use. I am especially interested in processing in stainless tanks as opposed to Jobo so...Processing time and agitation. I'm looking for a fully tonal negative. I scan and also print silver.

JH

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Pyrocat-HD. I use it for 35mm all the way up to 14x17. I've used it in tanks, trays, and rotary (BTZS tubes).

 

[Regular Rod]

I've been using 510 Pyro with tmy-400, Delta 400, and Ilford FP5+. There is a real lack of information for using these films and this developer in 35mm and 120. I would like to get a sense of success with each film. 1st what did you rate each film at. What dilution and temp did you use. I am especially interested in processing in stainless tanks as opposed to Jobo so...Processing time and agitation. I'm looking for a fully tonal negative. I scan and also print silver.

JH

I use box speed for all ILFORD films and expose based on the Zone system usually choosing the Zone III areas as the most important during the exposure. 510-PYRO is a very effective compensating developer if using a semi-stand agitation routine and that seems to look after the highlight Zones so well it is possible to use each frame on a roll of film for a different subject. Personally, I now save money on film because there is no longer any need to bracket exposures, well no need for the sake of exposure anyway. With 510-PYRO and this regime, it is normal to have a roll of 120 with 6 (6x12), or 8 (6x9), or 12 (6x6) frames all nicely printable.

Temperature: 20 deg. Celsius
Pre Soak: 5 minutes with 4 smooth inversions every minute adding a swirl on each inversion. Pour out.
Developer Dilution: 1 in 100
Time: 8 minutes 15 seconds
Agitation: 1st 75 seconds constant smooth inversions with a swirl on each inversion. No agitation for next 2 minutes then 4 inversions in same manner as before. No agitation for 2 more minutes then 4 inversions in same manner as before. No agitation for 2 more minutes then 4 inversions in same manner as before. At 8 minutes 15 seconds pour out.
Stop/Rinse: rinse with clean water, two tanks full.
Fix: ILFORD Rapid Fixer diluted 1 to 4 for 5 minutes, inverted 4 times at start and then at each minute.
Wash: As per ILFORD guidelines

RR