I've been processing 120 rolls of T-Max and Acros 100 (rated at 50asa) in my Jobo on a weekly basis for nearly a year with consistent results. Light orange-tan stain, even development (tested on my uv x-rite); with more latitude, acutance and less apparent grain than TMax and T-MaxRS. I'm even getting anticipated results when pushing up to two stops on both stocks.
The key to WD2D+ and Jobo is you must use the CPP2 model - so you can set the rotation speed to the slowest "F" position and maintain accurate temperature; which you can't on the CPA models. You also need to add about 20% more volume than what Jobo reccommends for the tank, use distilled water and never load more than one roll per reel.
This advice will guarantee you tack sharp, wide-latitude and even WD2D+ T-Max & Acros 120 processes. I'm guessing all those frustrated rotary pyro roll developers out there are such because they're using too-little fluid, too fast a rotation, non-distilled water, that crap CPA thermo or all the above. How do I know? Been there, done that ;-).
Specifically, my whole process is: shoot 6x7 120 Acros or T-Max 100 (rated 50), process Jobo CPP2 at "F" position with about 20% more than reccommended volume with only one roll per reel (2min water wash, 9min base dev time at 20C, 30s odorless stop, 5min non-hardening odorless fix, 5 wash cycles over 10min and 1min Photo Flo. I use the mftg recco working solutions and distilled water throughout. I've done this many times at normal, n+1, n+1.5 and n+2.
Once processed; I scan 4000 dpi on Nikon 9000ED fluid mount via VueScan, edit Photoshop and print Epson 3800 to Harman FBAI Gloss Warmtone or Matte. I'm now switching my print process over to enlarged acetate negatives from the Epson 3800 for platinum contact prints via plate burner.