outofoptions said:Maybe it is just me, but I took this to mean that Sandy King DID have such an interest. If so he needs to sue "Photographers Formulary" because they have the formula posted. At least they give him credit.Maybe it is just a carry over from the other thread on my part, but by repeating it, it sounds more like an accusation of bias for profit than a disclaimer IF you know Sandy is responsible for developing the Pyrocat-HD formula. I, for one, love the way the net has enabled people to share with each other and don't like seeing that undermined. I waited to post this until I verified the formula is available for free. I assume YOU knew this and didn't mean it the way I was taking it. Just a heads up I guess that your wording could be misconstrued and this has bothered me since reading it because I thought that Sandy had no "proprietary" or "financial" interest in this but was sharing it for others to use.
steve simmons said:I do have a magazine that charges for people who want to read it. But to say that I have a proprietary interest in what the information is, or what the test results are, is incorrect. If I had liked HD better I would have switched in a minute. I did not so I did not..
We can debate about the amount of stain but as David Goldfarb so rightly did he asked questions along the lines of does it matter. If you are interested in making photos does it matter. pegging high and low values, trying to match film curves, etc. is really a different study. Valuable perhaps but not necessarily relevant to making photographs. Yes, deciding which print someone likes better an be a personal judgement. But so is deciding what to photograph and when.
Again. Goldfarb, as much as he and I have disagreed in the past, cut through all of our nonsense and asked the right questions.
steve simmons
steve simmons said:I do have a magazine that charges for people who want to read it. But to say that I have a proprietary interest in what the information is, or what the test results are, is incorrect. If I had liked HD better I would have switched in a minute. I did not so I did not..
We can debate about the amount of stain but as David Goldfarb so rightly did he asked questions along the lines of does it matter. If you are interested in making photos does it matter. pegging high and low values, trying to match film curves, etc. is really a different study. Valuable perhaps but not necessarily relevant to making photographs. Yes, deciding which print someone likes better an be a personal judgement. But so is deciding what to photograph and when.
Again. Goldfarb, as much as he and I have disagreed in the past, cut through all of our nonsense and asked the right questions.
steve simmons
steve simmons said:I locked in the EI for each film and developer and the dev time for placing a zone 8 tone in zone 8 on my print, Isn't that what matters? I don't care about pegging or matching curves or working with step wedges. The end goal, at least mine, is the final print. To get all balled up in the shape of the curve is another venture
For example, by fiddling and fussing around with D23 and Rodinal you can get matching curves. You will not get matching prints. What is the point? If you take the 1,000 best photos over the last 100 years - your choice - how many of them were done by sensitometric experts? Few.
Yes, I believe that staining developers give many advantages. I have seen this in my work and in the work of others. My preference is for PMK. I tested many films with ABC, the older Pyrocatechol formula, and, W2D2 and PMK in the mid 80s. I selected Tri-X and PMK and the best combination. I still like Tri-X in PMK even though the film is different then what I used 20 years ago. I have also come to like FP4+ in PMK. These are both in sheets.
steve simmons
steve simmons said:Here is how I test. I find the necessary exposure with each film and developer combination to get a zone 1 density that is enough to separate that tone from pure paper black. I use a grade 2 paper or filter. This 'necessary 'exposure results in a zone 1 density about .1 above film base plus fog. This is a very standard result. I then find a zone 8 density in the scene and expose it at my tested ei. I then find the dev time needed to get a zone 8 tone (just below pure paper white) on my print. This density is usually around 1.3-1.35. This is also an accepted result. How do I know these are standard results, Becasue when I did all of my testing 25 years ago these were the densities i got. It is not necesasary to use a densitometer to get these results. When you do you end up at the same place.
The tests I did were normal scenes exposed and developed normally. The same scene in each test treated properly for that film and developer. They were then proofed on the same paper and paper grade/filter.
steve simmons
sanking said:In my tests using the Air Force resolution chart I have been able to consistently get close to 80 lpmm with TMAX-100, and rarely as much as 65 lpmm with FP4+.
outofoptions said:I'd vote for PE but he probably wants no part of this. Probably just got myself added to his 'block' list.
Kirk Keyes said:Sandy - are you using the Edmunds wall chart that one photographs through the camera lens? If have recently gained access to the chrome on glass slide USAF resolution charts and I've only played a couple of times with them, but the last time I did I was able to get about 80 line pairs/mm with Fuji Acros in Xtol 1:1. (Target 6-4) I think I can do better with a little refinement in technique. Fuji says 60 lp/mm at low contrast and 200 lp/mm high contrast.
I haven't tried 100TMX yet or PMK...
Kirk
There are legitimate different ways of testing. One can test as Jorge is suggesting but after a certain basic level of understanding is obtained one must photograph in the real world. Beyond that basic level of understanding further testing becomes an activity other than making photographs. It becomes an advanced study of sensitometry. This is certainly a valuable thing to do but it is no longer about making photographs. First and formost View Camera magazine is about making photographs. We have shown hundreds of the best photographrs over the last 17 years. Very few of them have done more testing and drawn curves beyond simply understaning how to make the photograhs they want to make. This is what View Camera is about.
steve simmons said:You have to relate the densities in the negative to the manner of final presentation - the print and the paper you are printing on. This is my point. You wrote an article for View Camera a year or so ago. Given the quality of that article it is clear that you do not understand anything about the craft of photography. The text was full of holes and at times incoherent, the photographs were atrocious, and the six people who reviewed it for me, all independantly said I should never publish this as it was not worthy of the publication.
I will stand on my record. It is far deeper, broader and more extensive than anything you have ever done.
I will do the article and let people make up their own minds.
steve simmons
Ole said:Gentlemen;
If you wish to continue this "discussion" please take it outside APUG.
Further posts in the same vein will be deleted.
Ole said:Gentlemen;
If you wish to continue this "discussion" please take it outside APUG.
Further posts in the same vein will be deleted.
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