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Pushing Neopan 400 (120)

Lruw

Member
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Joined
Jan 29, 2009
Messages
36
Location
Not-Chicago,
Format
35mm
Hey, I wanted to know if anybody had pushed Neopan 400 in 120 to 800 or 1600 with any success. I checked previous threads and development charts, but I didn't see any information for it specifically.

I am going to be shooting an indoor event with decent-ish light. I don't know if 400 will be fast enough. 800 would probably be fine, but I would like to shoot at 1600 if I could get decent results. I will be using a lens with a max aperture of 2.8. All of the shooting I "have" to do will be done on digital, but I would like to shoot some film on the side.

Thanks for the help and sorry if I missed any relevant recent threads.
 
I push it all the time in both 135 and 120. XTOL 1+1 and you're done.
 
Would rodinal work or would the grain overtake the image?
 
You'll lose speed and go against the flow of pushing the film. You can do it, but it's not ideal.
 
I've found XTol to be very good for pushing a lot of films, and have even pushed Neopan 400 up to 3200 with fairly good results. I wouldn't go that far unless you really need to, but at 1600 you might be surprised at how nice this film can look.
 
Does anyone have experience using Greeley's 'ULTIMA' metol developer and replenisher? It is a two bath developer mentioned in a UK "MONO MAGAZINE" issue 20 published Nov/Dec 2000. It supposedly has excellent pushing capability of 400 speed film to 1600.
 
I think I will try with Rodinal, just because I have it handy and the roll is mostly for experimentation.

I checked the massive development chart and noticed all times were the same for the 35mm and 120 size at all speeds and concentrations, but the 1600 speed for 120 was missing. Should times, in general, be the same regardless of size?
 
I had a thread last week asking the same thing but for Acros/Legacy Pro 100 (in HC-110). The key piece of information that I had been looking for was a rule of thumb that Gurkenprinz had posted.

It's been a while and my notes don't tell me why I chose these times, but I think it was a guesstimate based on the massive dev chart and the usual pushing rule (1 stop x1.5, 2stops x2.25)
Click to expand...

So I would think that if you follow the general rule with whatever the standard time is for your developer, you'll be just about right. Then again I just found that "general rule of thumb" recently so what do I know?
 
I looked for further pushing options and might order some Xtol or HC110 to try out.

I have on last question. The online development chart suggests a dilution of "B." What is that supposed to mean? I did not see an explanation on the website.
 
Kodak specifies a number of different dilutions for HC110, each of which is designated using a different letter (i.e. A, B, C, D, E...). Photographers have experimented with additional alternative dilutions, and they have tended to be assigned unofficial letter designations as well.

Dilution B corresponds to 1 part concentrate added to 31 parts water. (Unofficial) dilution H corresponds to 1 part concentrate added to 63 parts water.

(all dilutions assuming the North American packaging, and not the more dilute European packaging).

Here is a link to Kodak's HC110 publication:

http://wwwcaen.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/j24/j24.pdf

Matt
 
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