Hi! I was just wondering if it is possible to push Fomapan 200 to 1600 and get somewhat clean results. I have been working with some Arista EDU 200 (Fomapan 200) and I know the film has some moderately fine grain. I am using caffenol as my developer. Would I be able to get a nice looking image?
Pushing Fomapan 200 to 1600?
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That's 3 stops underexposed which is a lot for a film that is unlikely to have the qualities in it to cope. What kind of a scene are you contemplating using 1600 for? The apparent quality of the shot might depend on the light conditions and how much the shadow details are a part of the scene
pentaxuser
pentaxuser
Pushing, expose for the highlights and let the shadows fall where they may. With a 3 stop push the gain will be more pronounced, no shadow detail, high contrast, I never used Caffenal but in general add 50% time for each push so 150% more than. If shooting 35mm I would use Tmax or Delta 3200 and shoot at 1200 to 1600.
I haven't shot Foma/.EDU Ultra 200, but I've pushed the 100 and 400 a few times.
Fompan 100 pushes very well up to a couple stops -- it's almost as good at EI 400 as Fomapan 400 (which I find quite good at box speed, despite many claims that at best this is a 320 speed film). Foma 400 can be pushed to 1600 and works fairly well -- but that's only two stops, not three. Generally, a three stop push is going to give pretty thin negatives, as noted above, with very little information in shadow areas. If you have a choice, use the 400 speed film instead, or better yet use Tri-X or one of the "3200" films (which are actually ISO 800-1000 but designed to push well). You'll probably get better grain with either T-Max P3200 or Delta 3200 at 1600 than you would with Foma 200 at the same EI -- and you'll be able to see much more of your scenes.
Fompan 100 pushes very well up to a couple stops -- it's almost as good at EI 400 as Fomapan 400 (which I find quite good at box speed, despite many claims that at best this is a 320 speed film). Foma 400 can be pushed to 1600 and works fairly well -- but that's only two stops, not three. Generally, a three stop push is going to give pretty thin negatives, as noted above, with very little information in shadow areas. If you have a choice, use the 400 speed film instead, or better yet use Tri-X or one of the "3200" films (which are actually ISO 800-1000 but designed to push well). You'll probably get better grain with either T-Max P3200 or Delta 3200 at 1600 than you would with Foma 200 at the same EI -- and you'll be able to see much more of your scenes.
That can't be done.
There's no chemical way to make that film reach a clean tone at EI1600.
The world is full of bad tone negatives, though, and if instead of darkroom printing you want to make a digital file from that type of negative, of course it can be done: the best option is using a developer designed for pushing, like TMaxDev, DD-X or Microphen.
Anyway, that film's real working space is EI200 for overcast and at EI100 for direct sunlight.
In my experience Foma films are the worst films for pushing.
Not a good idea, it just gives you an underexposed negative that has not been pushed processed with the added 150% increase in time.
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People say Fomapan 200 pushes better than the other Foma films, but I have not tried. 1600 seems pretty far to me, though. Give it a shot, developed like @Paul Howell said and see what happens. If you need guaranteed decent results, I'd start with a faster film that is known to push to 1600 well.
Options:
Skip a zero, and expose your film beautifully at 160.
For 1600, do it for very low contrast scenes only, and you'll get good results if you like grain...
Skip a zero, and expose your film beautifully at 160.
For 1600, do it for very low contrast scenes only, and you'll get good results if you like grain...
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