Push Processing T-Max 400

[_T_]

I'm thinking about shooting a couple of rolls of T-Max 400 for push processing 1 full stop with Xtol. The negatives will then be scanned with a good film scanner. All of the resources that I've encountered recommend no deviation from the standard development time whatsoever.

I'm wondering if other people have found this recommendation to produce acceptable results, or if anyone has any other recommendations they think might work better.

I'm somewhat skeptical as I've shot a number of frames which were intentionally underexposed by 1 full stop and processed in Xtol at the standard development time, and those frames were very faint. Am I just underestimating the latitude of my film, or is my skepticism valid?

 

[markbarendt]

The recommendation to develop normally is valid and proper.

It is natural for negatives with less exposure to look a bit fainter that normal. More development does not fix faint shadow areas, period. Only more exposure can fix weak shadows.

 

[awty]

If you develop longer you will get better shadow detail, but less highlight detail.....a little more grain
You choose which you prefer and shoot towards that.
Experimentation is the spice of life.

 

[Colin Corneau]

I regularly shoot TMY-2 at EI 800...I usually tack on an extra 20% development time but generally B&W films have enough latitude for a one stop underexposure with no problems.
That said, I've found T-grain films to be a lot more demanding for proper development and exposure than 'regular' films. I guess that's the trade off for such great tones and grain.

 

[markbarendt]

If you develop longer you will get better shadow detail, but less highlight detail.....

This is a misconception, nothing fixes underexposure. Reducing exposure reduces the shadow detail on the film, period. That doesn't mean the print will be immediately affected, the film rating typically provides a bit of a safety margin.

As you reduce exposure there is less and less shadow detail available on the negative, once camera exposure is reduced enough to use up the normal print safety margin your print starts losing shadow detail, period.

Adjusting film development is meant simply to change the contrast rate of the print, the way the negative looks is actually irrelevant as long as the print works out.

The highlight detail is not reduced when extra development is added, it simply moves those tones higher on the film curve, that change just requires a little more effort (burning) to get the highlights back in the printable range.

 

[btaylor]

Does anyone flash film anymore? That used to be a way to bring up shadow detail in underexposed films.

 

[MattKing]

The manufacturer recommends that you develop T-Max 400 normally when you under-expose it by one stop. Some wonder why. It is because developing it for a longer time (a "push") increases mid-tone and highlight contrast, at the expense of some highlight rendition. That is the case for all films when they are pushed. It is just that the relative benefits and downsides of push development vs. normal development fall on the "normal" side for T-Max 400.
The appearance of mid-tones and highlights is very important when it comes to the print.