Push processing advice

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EASmithV

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Well, I usually don't push process but the situation called for pushing Tmax 100 to ASA 800...

I am using HC-110 dilution H(?) (dilution B cut in half).

If you think it's better, I also have Tmax developer (at 1/4) and D-76 (at stock soloution) mixed up to develop.
 

Marc Leest

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THe results will be anyway mediocre. If the roll is important, shoot a similar testroll first and try the parameters first on that roll. I would suggest prolonging the development with 30-40%.

regards, Marc
 
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EASmithV

EASmithV

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Crap, I put this in the wrong forum.

Hopefully it will look ok on 8x10 prints, I shot it in 4x5 sheets.
 
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EASmithV

EASmithV

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Wait, 30-40% extendended development to push process 3 stops?
 

Marc Leest

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Wait, 30-40% extendended development to push process 3 stops?

I would try that. The shadows are gone anyway so try to salvage the highlights.

marc.
 

2F/2F

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From experience with HC, I would not use dilution H to push that much. Even dilution B won't do it. It is near impossible to get an honest-to-god N+3 via development.

However, you only want to push as much as you need to get contrast and density to a *printable* level. It does not need to be perfect; just printable. You need not necessarily do a true +3. In fact, that might make the negative pretty hard to print. I would aim for a +2 at most.

On the plus side, it IS a non-random film, and it IS 4x5, and you ARE only going to 8x10 size. Therefore, it is not grain or sharpness that will be the problem.

On the minus side, you are using a film that does not have a ton of latitude, and anything that you thought would end up as a black or dark gray is now gone forever, all your intended midtones are now dark grays, and all your intended highlights are now midtones.

How many negs do you have? The best course of action would be to develop just one of them at first and see what happens. Pick the shot that you think is the least likely to actually be printed, as long as it was exposed like the other shots.

You don't need a new developer, nor will a speed increasing developer help you very much anyhow. HC makes a perfectly fine push developer in addition to its myriad of other uses. I would start by using dilution B at double the recommended time, with the realization that all you can do is try to salvage some midtones and highlights. Try to use 24C instead of 20C. It will make your time shorter, and modern films are designed to be processed that hot just fine. See what happens. It might be too much, and it might not be enough. You never know in such an extreme case with such a sensitive film. Try to print it, and make adjustments for the next sheet. You may want to not even push it that much and then use some Formulary intensifier and/or some selenium toner on the negs. This will make printing easier by giving you more density without totally jacking up the contrast.
 
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Philippe-Georges

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If I am not wrong, this pushing is a little beyond the film's possibility's and purpose.
I would suggest X-TOL concentrated 12 min. at 20°C, agitation : start 30 sec. then each 55 sec. for 5 sec. This has worked, on one occasion when I took the wrong roll of film, for me, but I do not know if it will for you, give it a try but do not shoot the pianist...
The old Agfa Refinal (can still be found) is good too, but merely for pushing classic emulsions like TRI-X 400 and PLUS-X, T-grain is not Refinal's cup of tea, nor is it mine. But in lack of anything else, it might save the day.
The shadows, like Marc said, they might be gone anyway...

Good luck,

Philippe
 
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