Purple tone with Ilford MGVI RC and KRST

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rduraoc

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I decided to try out KRST in some new prints I made, which I thought would look nice with cooler tones. The paper was Ilford MGIV RC pearl, fully developed (2min) in Agfa Neutol NE 1+7, fixed with Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4, and after a thorough wash, toned in KRST 1+13 for 12min. The initial print had a warm, brownish tone (also new to me, but the Neutol bottle is getting old), and after the tone I had a purple tone in the print. I don't like it. Can I get a neutral tone from this combination? Where did I go wrong? If I tone longer, and with a stronger dilution, will the purple dissapear?

TIA,

Rui
 

noseoil

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Rui, 12 minutes is too long! I generally use a 1:10 mix of KSRT (much less for some papers), but don't let it stay more than a minute (usually) in the fresh mixture. I think the prints that were in for 12 minutes will remain this way for ever. Next time, use a test strip of your image and start at 1 minute, then do another for 2 minutes. The way I do this is to look at an untoned print, then glance at the image in the toner for a short look. This way, you will see the shift as it happens. If you stare into the toner for too long, you will have trouble seeing the shift. Best, tim
 

glennfromwy

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Whooooo - too strong and too long. I use it at 1:20 and a couple of minutes is enough, unless I want it to start changing color. Be sure you wash the print long enough after toning, or dunk it in PermaWash for 30 seconds before washing. For RC paper to be in the soup that long means it's probably starting to delaminate at the corners. Keep wet time to a minimum with RC.
 
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rduraoc

rduraoc

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The bottle isn't very explicit, it suggests different concentrations for different purposes. I wanted to get a change in color (to eliminate the warm tone I got from the developer), so I decided to abuse it. I thought that if I overtoned, I'd get a dark print, not a purple one.
I guess it will have to be a trial and error work, until I get the tone I want. And I'll try it also with some FB prints, to check the differences.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

ann

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varying the ratio will result in various color shifts from an increase in the dmax to eggplant. The degree of visible shift is the result of paper types, developer, and fixer.

selenium works from the shadows up so the last changes will be seen in the highlights, and as someone else suggested it is very helpful to have a wet print of the same image available to compare as the changes start out to be very sutle and until one gains a lot of experience it may be difficult to determine when the action begins.


the lower the ratio the stronger the color shift.

warmpapers tone faster and shift color tone better than netural papers.
ilford RC papers resist toning (even the company indicates this) but can be forced to shift color, as you discovered.

Your correct , test, test, test, keep carefully notes .
 

hortense

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rduraoc said:
I decided to try out KRST in some new prints I made, which I thought would look nice with cooler tones. The paper was Ilford MGIV RC pearl, fully developed (2min) in Agfa Neutol NE 1+7, fixed with Ilford Rapid Fixer 1+4, and after a thorough wash, toned in KRST 1+13 for 12min. The initial print had a warm, brownish tone (also new to me, but the Neutol bottle is getting old), and after the tone I had a purple tone in the print. I don't like it. Can I get a neutral tone from this combination? Where did I go wrong? If I tone longer, and with a stronger dilution, will the purple dissapear?

TIA,

Rui

Rui,
Selenium toner more commonly uses a 1:20 or 1:25 and about 3 1/2 - 2 minutes. When left in the toner too long the hue moves toward purple - you can judge where you like it. I do not consider a this toner to be a cool toner e.g., gold
 
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