Purple edges on tmax 400?

jernejk · Aug 20, 2010

Hi,

I just developed tmax 400 in ultrafin plus. The negatives look ok, but the edge (perforation) is purple on some places. I've not seen something like this before. What could be the cause?

ann · Aug 20, 2010

lack of fixer. tmax films need longer fixing times . However, it is not unusal for the edges of film to show issues, either with the developer or fixer not getting to those edges bound by the reel.

Thomas Bertilsson · Aug 20, 2010

Is that remaining emulsion?

Sometimes when I process film in my stainless steel reels there are spots that don't get fixed out during processing where the film touches the reels.
I also use TMax 400, in both 120 and 35mm, and even though I fix for seven minutes with lots of agitation, I sometimes still get this effect.

I have never worried about it, because it doesn't affect either the negative or the print quality.

- Thomas

dehk · Aug 20, 2010

Sounds just like you haven't got rid of the purple dye completely?
Cause could be fixing and HCA/washing wasn't adequate.

Jeff Kubach · Aug 20, 2010

Sounds like a fixing problem. T-max usually needs time in the fix.

Jeff

jernejk · Aug 20, 2010

Aha, the reel preventing fixer access to emulsion would explain this. Since it's just on the edges, I think I'm fine.

Sirius Glass · Aug 20, 2010

A fixing problem.

Steve

tkamiya · Aug 20, 2010

I get this VERY often with my tmax400 and stainless steel reels. The shape of those "markings" always match right where reel spiral would be. Then, those "markings" never get into the image areas. Even with 10 minutes fix with Kodak fixer. Like Thomas, I never worry about it.

Sirius Glass · Aug 20, 2010

Correct me if I got this wrong ...

You are having problems getting fixed?

tkamiya · Aug 20, 2010

Oh, STOP....

srs5694 · Aug 20, 2010

I also almost always see this sort of thing when using SS reels, but seldom or never with plastic reels. If you're using SS reels, jernejk, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're using plastic reels, it could be the same thing is happening because your reels are different from mine or your loading technique is different; or it could be something else, like insufficient fluid volume. (If the tank isn't absolutely level, part of the reel might poke out of the solution, leaving underdeveloped or underfixed bits.)

SchwinnParamount · Aug 20, 2010

I just experienced the same problem with my TMax 400 II. In my case, I had done a fixer exhaustion test before the devleopment. Where my fixer normally fixes the film in 5 minutes, the test said I would need at least 11 minutes to fix the film. In short, my fixer is nearly done. My conclusion: Old fixer is not effective and will not fix the edges of the film that are in contact with the steel reel.

fschifano · Aug 21, 2010

jernejk said:
Aha, the reel preventing fixer access to emulsion would explain this. Since it's just on the edges, I think I'm fine.

Sure sounds like it. I get the same thing when I use SS reels too, and one of the reasons I'm so fond of plastic reels and tanks. Don't worry about it.

jernejk · Aug 21, 2010

It seems yesterday was not really my day. I always put film in a light soap bath as the final step and the water drains nicely.
Well yesterday I didn't put in enough soap or so it seems, and now my film is full of tiny spots where droplets remained. Is there a way to get rid of them?

Anon Ymous · Aug 21, 2010

jernejk said:
It seems yesterday was not really my day. I always put film in a light soap bath as the final step and the water drains nicely.
Well yesterday I didn't put in enough soap or so it seems, and now my film is full of tiny spots where droplets remained. Is there a way to get rid of them?

First of all, a proper wetting agent should be used for the final bath of the film, not just a light soap. Kodak Photo-Flo, Ilford Ilfotol, Agfa Agepon and Tetenal Mirasol are classic options. Now, regarding the spots, it matters a lot where these spots have formed. If they're on the base (back) side it's easy to get rid of them, if on the emulsion side, then you might not be able to fully remove them. In any case, wash again and use a wetting agent, preferably mixed with deionised water.

Sirius Glass · Aug 21, 2010

Anon Ymous said:
jernejk said:

It seems yesterday was not really my day. I always put film in a light soap bath as the final step and the water drains nicely.
Well yesterday I didn't put in enough soap or so it seems, and now my film is full of tiny spots where droplets remained. Is there a way to get rid of them?

Click to expand...

First of all, a proper wetting agent should be used for the final bath of the film, not just a light soap. Kodak Photo-Flo, Ilford Ilfotol, Agfa Agepon and Tetenal Mirasol are classic options. Now, regarding the spots, it matters a lot where these spots have formed. If they're on the base (back) side it's easy to get rid of them, if on the emulsion side, then you might not be able to fully remove them. In any case, wash again and use a wetting agent, preferably mixed with deionised water.

What he said. PhotoFlo et al are very cheap and a bottle lasts forever. If your black & white photos are of any value, and I assume they are, then use them. [Color uses stabilizers and PhotoFlo is not to be used.]

Steve

Thomas Bertilsson · Aug 21, 2010

Absolutely back this notion. I have used Sprint 'End of Run' for a good long time now with excellent results. No drying marks whatsoever, and I have tried it in regular tap water from two different water taps, distilled water, and Brita-filtered water. All works like a charm. And it's inexpensive too.

Sirius Glass said:
What he said. PhotoFlo et al are very cheap and a bottle lasts forever. If your black & white photos are of any value, and I assume they are, then use them. [Color uses stabilizers and PhotoFlo is not to be used.]

Steve

Ronald Moravec · Aug 22, 2010

Keep the film loose on the reel.

fschifano · Aug 22, 2010

That would work, but how would you do that? No, I'm not being facetious at all. Film has a natural curl to it after it''s been rolled up tighly in a cartridge for a while and wants to spring out to the edges of the spiral. AFIK, there is only one way to load the reel and however it falls, it falls.

Gerald C Koch · Aug 26, 2010

After walking film onto a SS reel the emulsion side will be pulled against the reel. This not what you want. You need to push the end of the film slightly in toward the reel. This will push the film backing against the reel rather than the emulsion side. This should resolve the edge problem.

GarageBoy · Sep 3, 2017

I had the same issue when I kinked the edge loading my stainless steel reel... It looks like no developer or fixer got to it (looks like undevloped film)

Beginning to hate both Paterson and stainless equally

Is it harmful in the long run?

MattKing · Sep 3, 2017

GarageBoy said:
Is it harmful in the long run?

Refix and re-wash the film. The fixer will remove everything from those undeveloped parts you don't want left on your negatives, and then the re-wash will remove the fixer.

Purple edges on tmax 400?

Moderator

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency