You could develop the film normally as you usually do and then use a reducer to correct the density. This has the advantage that you can see what you are doing during the reduction and stop at any time.
If it's critical stuff, shoot a different roll at that rate, test on that.
A reducer is used to remove silver from a negative or print. For an over exposed negative you need a cutting reducer like Farmer's Reducer. After developing and fixing the negative wash it briefly and then immerse it in Farmer's reducer. The formula is readily available on many websites and consists of potassium ferricyanide and sodium thiosulfate. Watch the negative carefully to check when the density is approaching the desired level. Remove the negative from the bath and wash it briefly and then refix it in youy usual fixer. Rewash the negative for your usual time to remove any thiosulfate from the reducing bath. It is best to stop just before the negative reaches the desired density as reduction continues for a brief period during washing. This can all be done in room light.
You can buy the reducer ready to be mixed from Photographer's Formulary. You want their Reducer #1.
Oh wow! That's awesome!!
How bad is the grain after that?
Yes they are called intensifiers. There is one catch you cannot add shadow detail where none exists in the original negative. However they allow you to get a good print without resorting to a higher contrast paper or filtration.
The grain is reduced from what was in the original negative.
Reduction is not something that you want to do to lessen grain or improve acutance. It's purpose is to salvage negatives that have been improperly exposed or developed. I doubt that it would improve acutance.
There are 3 types of reducers.
o Cutting or sub-proportional
o Proportional
o Super-proportional
Each addresses a different problem. Their use is usually the subject of an entire chapter in such books as Ansel Adams, The Negative. Depending on whether the ferricyanide and thiosulfate are mixed together or used seperately Farmer's Reducer can be either a cutting reducer or a proportional one. When mixed together the reducer lasts for only an hour or so and cannot be saved.
Hey Stone the other interesting thing about using a reducer is that the effect is reversible. If you go to far you can redevelop the silver and try again, as long as you haven't put it through the fix again.
As Gerold says this is basically a rescue technique for film.
For prints though it can be used creatively and selectively instead of dodging in many cases.
Hey Stone the other interesting thing about using a reducer is that the effect is reversible. If you go to far you can redevelop the silver and try again, as long as you haven't put it through the fix again.
The recommended version of Farmer's Reducer for over-exposure, that is cutting or sub-proportional, cannot be reversed as the thiosulfate in it removes the excess silver. This why the reducer should be adjusted to work slowly so as not to reduce the negative too much. This is accomplished by changing the amount of ferricyanide. The density of the negative must be checked periodically during the process.
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