I think the concern is that a 120 back would have a red window and ruin the film.
I wonder how one would deal with a camera (like a Mamiya tlr) that has winding to the beginning of the film built into the loading sequence.
Not an issue.
The image is focused to the front of the film, not the back of the film.
The pressure plate on a 220 back applies slightly more pressure to the back of the film, but the plane of focus is determined by the film gate, not the pressure plate.
I don't think I would bother with this on a 6x6 or 6x4.5, but I have seen people tape the paper leader to the 35mm film. With a Rollei, you are probably out of luck.I think the concern is that a 120 back would have a red window and ruin the film.
I wonder how one would deal with a camera (like a Mamiya tlr) that has winding to the beginning of the film built into the loading sequence.
Yep. I've done it before, it's just a pain. I need a list of 120 cameras that can just take the whole thing no issues. My TLRs won't nor will my M645 or S2.
You need to use the multi-exposure function, and guess/count winding turns. The real problem isn't as much with the beginning of the film, but rather with the exposure counting mechanism.I wonder how one would deal with a camera (like a Mamiya tlr) that has winding to the beginning of the film built into the loading sequence.
I thought a 120 to 35mm adapter would somehow slit the 120 film and put it in a canister. If I wanted to use 35mm film as full frame in a MF camera I'd just tape the 35mm film to a spent paper roll; am I missing something with this "adapter?"
The adapters permit you to decide to do this on a "spur of the moment" basis, with whatever 35mm film seems appropriate at the time. That includes colour film, which can eventually be rolled back into the cassette and handed to the lab (who are much more comfortable with factory load cassettes).I thought a 120 to 35mm adapter would somehow slit the 120 film and put it in a canister. If I wanted to use 35mm film as full frame in a MF camera I'd just tape the 35mm film to a spent paper roll; am I missing something with this "adapter?"
You can start at any point after you roll past the first frame. It's all film. When it stops winding, it is time to put it in a dark bag and manually wind the film back into the cassette, or load it on a reel for development.I can't see those adapters working in any of my 7 MF cameras. Even a 6x9 conversion rollfilm back needs an arrow on the paper to manually start the counter. Then what happens when you get to frame 8?
I thought a 120 to 35mm adapter would somehow slit the 120 film and put it in a canister. If I wanted to use 35mm film as full frame in a MF camera I'd just tape the 35mm film to a spent paper roll; am I missing something with this "adapter?"
I followed this method to shoot 35mm panoramas in my Pentax 6x7. This video was helpful in explaining how to pre-measure an old 120 paper leader so that you don't waste film when advancing the film. With the camera and pressure plate set to 220, I was able to get about 17 panoramic shots on a 36-exposure roll of 135 film. You can see some examples on my Flickr.The common way to use these, as I suggested above is to have an empty cassette on the take up side. On the empty cassette you have a premeasured leader that you tape to the beginning of your fresh roll. Then you spool that leader into the fresh roll, and install the cassettes. Then when you start advancing the film, it advances past the leader, and doesn’t waste too much of the fresh roll.
if I tried it on my Pentax 67 (which I haven’t) I’d put the 67 into 220 mode, so if there were more than 10 shots on the spool of 35mm, I could keep going until I run out of film. I don’t know how the lengths of film compare in 120, 220, and 135/36exp.
Those look great! How did you scan? I bought a piece of frosted glass to hold the film flat on the scanner bed, but it is a bit of a pain to keep it straight.
Add some painter's tape on either end of the film - be sure to leave the calibration area unblocked.How did you scan? I bought a piece of frosted glass to hold the film flat on the scanner bed, but it is a bit of a pain to keep it straight.
Those look great! How did you scan? I bought a piece of frosted glass to hold the film flat on the scanner bed, but it is a bit of a pain to keep it straight.
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