Processing old exposed film

[jonlwood]

I recently found a box of exposed B/W film (35 and 120) that was exposed at least 20 years ago. What is current technique for getting at least scannable negatives for this material?

Thanks

 

[Sirius Glass]

I recently found a box of exposed B/W film (35 and 120) that was exposed at least 20 years ago. What is current technique for getting at least scannable negatives for this material?

Thanks

Welcome to APUG Photrio!!​

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

HC110 is frequently cited as the best developer for recovering old films. Stand seems to be the flavor of the week. Google for more.

I have used D-76 1:1 with good results, using the published time/temperature for the film. Very not politically correct.

If the film is TMax or Tri-X (and their equivalents) 20 years shouldn't have done all that much to the latent image. It won't be the greatest negative you have ever seen but you do get a recognizable image.

 

[Paul Howell]

I agree that HC 110 is often cited as the best for old film, not as much base fog. The last old film I developed was roll of Trix 120 from the 70s my sister found after her husband passed away. I used DK50 1:1, sadly it had been stored in a garage here in the Phoenix area and was completely fogged and unprintable.

 

[Don_ih]

I recently found a box of exposed B/W film (35 and 120) that was exposed at least 20 years ago. What is current technique for getting at least scannable negatives for this material?

Thanks

If slower b&w film, develop it with a bit of time added - like 10% - to the normal developing time. 20 years doesn't add much fog to slower films. You'll get scannable results. If the film is iso400, maybe don't add any extra time in the developer, since 400 speed film can gain a lot of fog over 20 years.
If it's colour film, just get it developed and cross your fingers.

 

[reddesert]

IMO, just develop it like you normally do. I've developed B&W film that was exposed 20 years ago and it came out fine (Tri-X and Tmax). Possible issues include: if it's Pan-F the latent images may have vanished; and the 120 rolls may have "wrapper offset" (ink transfer from backing paper). You can't do anything about these issues, so it doesn't affect your development choices.

I don't understand the recommendation of stand development for old film. I think this recommendation comes about because it means you don't have to guess the developing time, but it seems likely to increase fog and decrease contrast, which is not what you need.

 

[Agulliver]

depends a bit on what kind of films you've got there.

Most B&W film I'd just develop however you normally do. I've had great results with film exposed over 50 years before being developed in ID-11. If it's films that are still in production or some other film in the MDC you have reliable development times. Just go with whatever chemistry you normally would. I do not, however, understand the current fixation with stand development. YMMV but I don't find one bit that it's helpful with old film.

If the film was high speed film such as Delta 3200, TMZ, Neopan 1600 then you might want to consider base fog as an issue. If it's Kodak verichrome Pan, that stuff will probably be OK after being exposed to a nuclear blast.

 

[Donald Qualls]

For only twenty years old, develop normally (for the film type, assuming you can find times). Yes, ideally in a low-fog developer like HC-110, though D-23 works pretty well, too. If you have the option, develop as cold as you can, down to about 60F for most developers (as low as 55F for D-23), and compensate temperature with extra time; the lower temperature will usually help minimize fog. Fog shouldn't be a huge issue with film only twenty years after exposure (as others have said), unless it was stored in a car trunk or on top of a water heater.

Or sell it on eBay; found film has done well there (I've bought several cameras just for the roll of film I could see had been left behind).