processing ( both c41 + e6 )

[removed account4]

i have been processing my own b/w for about 30 years now
and with the current lack of labs in my neck of the woods ( RI )
that still process slide and cn film bigger than 35mm ... i was thinking
that if it isn't too crazy, i might try my hand at processing my own rolls and sheets.
i have never processed color-anything before
( in the end the images will not be printed ina traditional workflow ) ...

is color processing that much different than b/w ?
will i have trouble or is it pretty much the same drill, but different chemistry ..

i have a unicolor drum that i can load rolls and sheets into.
and lastly, how nasty is the chemistry ?
i currently have a hauler take away my stuff, and extract
silver from my silver myself.

thanks in advance
john

 

[nickandre]

It's not that much more different or difficult. It goes faster and it's done at higher temperatures. The chemistry isn't really bad, with the exception of the fix which has silver in it when you're done. The developer does not contain metol, so it's not as allergenic as typical B+W developers.

Here's an article I wrote on the subject some time ago:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Have fun. Any questions feel free to PM me.

 

[removed account4]

thanks for the quick post nicholas ..
i read your article when it was first written
and read it again ... is e6 as un-complicated as c41 ?

 

[nickandre]

This depends. The E6 process is done at the same temperature and agitation, but can have more steps.

The kodak E6 kit is regarded as giving the most consistent/best results. The only issue is that the process takes FOREVER because it's broken down into so many steps (First developer, reversal bath, wash, second developer, wash, pre bleach, bleach, wash, fix, long wash, final rinse.)

Alternatively, places make a 3 bath kit with less steps that will give good results. (first developer, wash, color developer, wash, blix, long wash, final rinse)

Your best bet when starting is to purchase either a C41 press kit or a 3 bath E6 kit for simplicity and get processing. If you like it, you can invest in chemistry. It lasts a long time.

 

[hrst]

C-41 and E6 are not difficult, all you need is water bath to maintain temperature at 100F/38C (tip: fever thermometer), then just follow the instructions and you'll get professional results. I'd say; "Just do it!"

Complete 7-bath E6 may be a bit tedious as you need many bottles and mixing them all takes some time but not that bad.

 

[removed account4]

thanks for your encouragement andre and hrst !

i might be doing this sooner rather than later ..



john

 

[Athiril]

I dont use a water bath, I find with a heat insulating plastic tank, prewarming the tank with a presoak so the water sits at 40c, will hold my temp for the 3 min 15 sec at an ambient environment temp of ~20-24c.

 

[Diapositivo]

I just begun developing slides. I use a Jobo CPP-2 with lift, which helps a lot. I had no previous experience of black and white development, or other colour development. I also skipped the three-bath kits and begun with a six-bath Ornano kit and frankly the Jobo makes the entire process quite easy. The only thing that I find difficult is loading the spiral in the changing bag, but you are already past those difficulties since long.

In approaching E-6 development you should keep in mind this: the first bath, the "first developer", is the only really time-sensitive and temperature-sensitive part of the process.
All the other baths are "to completion", i.e. you cannot "overdo" them and you can always safely err by prolonging bath time. So if the temperature of your bath is not exactly 38°C or so, let's say you suspect it went down to 36°C, you just precautionally extend the processing (e.g. bleach for 8' rather than for 6') and results will be fine. The instruction of my kit say to maintain 38° for the first three baths, and than 33-39 for the other baths, but considering that also also the second and third baths are to completion, you should not worry too much about temperatures after the first bath. Just keep the baths at or above 33°C.

So first development is the only difficulty. You have to find a way to have a repeatable process as far as temperature, agitation and lenght are concerned. A rotary processor would be extremely helpful, because it helps you maintaining uniformity between treatments and therefore uniformity of results. If your rotary processor does not keep water warm, you should find a way to have a constant temperature (of 38° or very close to) for the first development time, which lasts for 6 to 8 minutes depending on various circumstances. The rest is easy.

Fabrizio

 

[Athiril]

Ive run my bathes in C-41 and E-6 after developing stage at 20c even. But you do need to be aware of temp, you do not want to suddenly take you film from 38c down to lower temperature so quickly, a reasonably quick gradual change seems to be okay in practise for me, but dont suddenly slam the film with a diff temp.