Processing 8x10 E6 film in Jobo 2830 drum.

I process my 4x5" E6 films in a Jobo 3010 Expert drum but I don't have an Expert drum for 8x10" film. I process all my b&w film in trays simply because I prefer it over the Jobo. I rarely shoot E6 8x10 film but it would be nice to shoot some every once in a while for a treat and not have to send it out for processing. But I shoot so little of it that I'm not going to get an expensive Expert drum for 8x10. I have a 2830 print drum that I don't use for anything and I have heard that it is possible to modify it to process E6 film. Does anyone know if that is true and, if so, how the modifications are done? I don't mind modifying the drum because, as I said, I don't use it for anything anyway. I am extremely handy when it comes to building and modifying things and I have a fully equipped shop to do just about anything imagineable. I appreciate any ideas or suggestions someone may have but I would particularly like to hear from someone who has actually modified a Jobo print drum and processed E6 film in it and got good results.

Modify? Close your eyes and insert the film -)

I haven't used it for E6 but have used it for B&W. Just treat the film like paper. Why not test it with B&W film. A lot cheaper. Get a feel for it.

Here is a related thread. You may have to see for yourself if the ridges cause a probem with the back of the film.
(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

"Modify? Close your eyes and insert the film -)"

Yes, modify. There are reportedly modifications that can be made to the drum to produce better results. That's why I asked. I'm hoping that someone knows how those modifications are done. As you know, Jobo does not recommend using the print drums for film and apparently they weren't producing the greatest results and that's why they developed the Expert drums. (Of course maybe they just wanted to sell us the more expensive Expert drums ) But photographers raved about the results they were getting with the Expert drums when they came out which implies that they do produce better results. I have heard (and read) that there are modifications that can be made to the print drums to make them better for film processing. Unfortunately, I wasn't interested in doing that at the time so I didn't find out how it is done. I figured that APUG would be a good place to find someone who knows about it.

Thanks ic-racer. I found the original thread mentioned in the thread you provided to be interesting. I noticed that you experienced uneven development when you developed film in the 2830 drum - apparently streaking that went along the direction of rotation. Did you ever resolve that problem?

No, I never had any problems on the emulsion side with any film in the 2830 (though I got some increased edge density in the 1500, but in retrospect I think that might have been related to not enough chemistry). One sheet of FP4+ I tried in the 2800 got marks on the back that you could see in a reflection off the back right where the ridges would have been. This did not go away with repeat fix or wash. I don't think it would show in printing, though. Other films I tested were perfectly OK on the back. Because I wash in the drum I have been giving an additional rinse in a tray just before the photoflo to check for any extra blue/pink that might come off and occasionally I get some. BTW I also wash in the 3010 expert drum and do the same extra tray rinse before the photoflo.

Realize that the custom ULF Expert drums they used to sell were similar to the 2800 drums but without the ridges.